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Contemporary twists on classic dishes earned this local chef a national award
• by Julie Failla Earhart - Photo by Jonathan Swegle
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Old Warson Country Club’s executive chef, Aidan Murphy, has had a busy, busy year. In April, he became one of 62 certified master chefs in the United States – and the only chef in the area to hold this title, which is granted by the American Culinary Federation after 10 days of rigorous testing on culinary skill and knowledge.
Then in July, he won the 2006 ACF National Chef of the Year Award. Murphy was the first chef from the Central Division (and you thought Central Division was only for baseball, right?) to cinch the title since 1996.
What chain of events resulted in your winning the chef of the year award?
First, you have to be nominated. That’s quite an honor alone. Then you participate in six to eight regional competitions. I won the Central division chef of the year award. As you move up the ladder, you finally compete in a cook-off against the remaining three winners from each of the country’s four regions.
What do you think contributed to your winning?
I took a classical dish and put a contemporary twist on it, that’s all. Food doesn’t change, just the pairing and the presentation.
How did you prepare for the final cook-off?
There is a three-course meal. I know what your next question will be, so here goes: The fish course was a Panko-and-Herb-Crusted Skate Wing with Lobster and Corn Risotto and Beurre Noisette and Caper Sauce. For the soup course, I made Spicy Vegetable Broth with Roasted Garlic and Herb Flan on Beer-Braised Pork Belly and a Parmigiano-Reggiano handmade cheese straw. For the main course, I went back to the classic shepherd’s pie and put a twist on it. Basically it is a lamb stew in a rosemary tart shell with parsley-whipped potatoes, minted carrots and turnips, green beans and roast loin of domestic lamb.
What’s next?
Get reacquainted with my family. My wife, Cindy, and I have four children – three at college and one in high school. I’m heavily involved with the ACF’s junior chefs program [and] competitions so I’ll be doing a lot of traveling and working with young chefs. I am looking forward to my mother coming from Dublin to spend some time with us.
Where do you get new ideas?
Most come from working with junior chefs and judging competitions. That’s a real eye-opener. I do a lot of R&D, playing in the kitchen. My classical European training gave me good, strong basic skills and [taught me] to go outside my comfort zone. America taught me to relax.
Where were you trained?
Initially by my mother. I am one of three boys and the only one who went in the kitchen to help Mom. When I was a Boy Scout, I was the one at the campfire. When I wanted to become a chef, it wasn’t cool – my parents were concerned for my future. I worked in all aspects of the kitchen: dishwasher, line cook, whatever I had to do to stay there. I went to the Dublin College of Catering. After six months in Dublin I knew that, back then, it was not a place for a broader culinary career. I entered a very regimented apprenticeship at the London City & Guilds. I went to Switzerland and worked in a club there, where I met my wife. She is from Minnesota, so we came to the States, married in December and promptly moved to Florida. We were there for eight years before coming to St. Louis.
Why St. Louis?
Old Warson’s GM, Wolfgang von Dressler, had moved here, caught wind that I was looking to move to the Midwest and offered me the position. I’ve been in the States a total of about 24 years.
What one ingredient do you hate to work with?
I used to hate cilantro. To me, it tasted like perfume. I had other chefs who coached me and taught me that I can’t have a preference. I have to think about what my customers want. It was a real learning experience.
Is there much of a difference in cooking in a club environment than in a restaurant?
In the old days, there used to be. Now, clubs have to be better than restaurants and even hotels. More people are world travelers and expect a certain level of quality. We may have three very different events going on at the same time, whereas in a restaurant a chef can focus on what’s being offered that night.
How did you celebrate your chef of the year award?
Some of my chef buddies threw me a little surprise party. My three college kids came home for the day and we just kicked back and relaxed.
What does your family think?
My family and my chef buddies keep me grounded. It was nice to have the spotlight for a few minutes, but they quickly pull me in if I let it go to my head. And if they won’t, my customers will. I have to be the chef of the year every day for them. It’s what they expect and, more important, what they deserve.
What advice do you give aspiring chefs?
Conquer the basics and you can do anything.
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