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Shake off the chills with a classic Sidecar
• by Stacey Rynders
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The Sidecar was first created in Paris during World War I as a way of relieving the symptoms of the common cold. According to lore, a captain who was routinely escorted to his favorite watering hole in the sidecar of a motorcycle ordered some brandy, a traditional cold remedy of the day, and suggested squeezed lemon and Cointreau be added to lighten the spirit’s flavor.
The American expatriate crowd escorted the drink to further popularity in postwar Paris. Today, it remains one of the few classic cocktails of the early 20th century to still be served routinely at bars.
The Sidecar has morphed over the intervening years. It is more common now for the drink to be blended with sweet-and-sour mix, Triple Sec and Cognac, such as Remy-Martin or Courvoisier. Generally, it is served in a martini glass with a
maraschino cherry garnish.
However, at King Louie’s it is possible to sample the more traditional blend that brought the Sidecar its original acclaim. Mixologist Jeff Ward adheres to the original recipe that calls for Cointreau and brandy but substitutes fresh-made lemonade for the fresh-squeezed lemon juice. Ward serves this cocktail on the rocks in a snifter with an orange wedge.
“It’s like a brandy margarita if you do it properly,” said Ward, who has been bartending for nearly nine years.
Ward’s version of the Sidecar lacks the sharp sourness of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and the over-syrupy texture of store-bought sour mixes. The Sidecar at King Louie’s tastes like a refreshing zing of lemon, married well with the zangy orange of the Cointreau. It’s all capped with a warm sliver of brandy that runs down the back of the throat.
Ward confessed, however, that his spin on the Sidecar wasn’t developed through training. Instead, study was his guide. As an aficionado of reference books, Ward said his studies have given him an insight into his craft that hand-me-down training couldn’t give. As a result, Ward is able to concoct on demand, adjusting recipes to something between the new and the old until he hits perfection.
His Cosmopolitan is one such example. Although one traditional recipe, found in the “Mr. Boston: Official Bartender’s & Party Guide,” calls for regular vodka, cranberry juice and lime juice, the advent of flavored vodka made Absolut Citron a mainstay ingredient for this cocktail. Combine the stringent, lemon-forward Absolut Citron with anything more than a drop of the heavy-handed Rose’s lime juice and the trendy Cosmopolitan easily becomes a cocktail with too many dueling flavors.
Ward’s Cosmopolitan has a traditional, subtle hint of fresh-squeezed lime juice and uses a smooth Smirnoff Citrus that leaves the lemon as an accent instead of a main attraction. The result is a more enjoyable spin on this cocktail that builds on its traditional roots.
Ward brings a sophisticated touch to a classic bar and restaurant such as King Louie’s, a stylish marriage of old and new. With the moody combination of exposed brick and an Old World bar etched with the character-enhancing dents of use and age, King Louie’s is the perfect setting to enjoy the cloudy, amber Sidecar, just one of the luxurious and flawless cocktails Ward serves.
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