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New Hybrid Grapes are Poised to Overcome Missouri’s Cantankerous Climate
• by Glenn Bardgett - Photo by Susanne Howard, Mid America Viticulture and Enology Center
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Missouri is too hot in the summer, too cold in the winter and too humid all of the time. This past winter was a great example of why it is so difficult to grow the vinifera varieties that are well-known to wine drinkers, i.e. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc. The major element that these grapes require is a Mediterranean – or at least a predictable – climate with a long, cool or cold winter, allowing the grapevines to go dormant in late fall and stay there until warm spring days awaken them to the potential of the next great vintage. Sorry, but Missouri is not very Mediterranean, aside from, perhaps, the multitude of great Italian restaurants dotting the city.
For most of the nearly two centuries of Missouri wine history, the challenge has been to find grape types (technically known by the “charts-and-graphs” folks as cultivars) that not only grow well, but actually thrive in our climate. Names such as Vidal Blanc, Chancellor, Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Vignoles and Norton became as revered to Missouri wine fans as the vinifera varieties were to wine fans throughout the world.
Because Missouri wines were held in high esteem internationally before Prohibition, there has always been a desire to return to that level. To achieve this, Missouri winemakers have discovered several new hybrid grape types that grow and thrive in our climate. These cross-bred varieties have multinational parentage, combining the finesse and style of the European types with the hardiness and disease resistance of our native grapes.
Two recent (or at least recent in a wine-research and development timeline) varieties have found enormous interest in our state, Chardonel and Traminette. Both of these new varieties were developed in New York state by crossbreeding vines of established quality and character. Chardonel is a hybrid of the famed Chardonnay grape and the French-American hybrid Seyval Blanc. Chardonel has much of the character and style of its very popular Chardonnay parent but enough sturdiness to live in our climate.
The other cultivar with major potential is Traminette, a hybrid of Gewürztraminer and a variety technically known as Joannes Seyve 23.416 (which is a very close relative of Seyval Blanc). There are over 10,000 grape varieties worldwide, most of them not named until they become significant, or at least perceived to have enough marketing value to put a name on them instead of just a number.
Traminette was developed in 1965 by Herb Barrett of the University of Illinois. All of the research was done at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station at Cornell University in Geneva, NY, one of the major locations in the world for extensive grape research. Barrett had originally developed the variety as a table grape and only later discovered its outstanding potential for superb table wines. Initially known only as NY65.533.13, it was named Traminette in 1996.
Traminette has character, like most of us, which reflects both sides of its parentage, but I firmly believe that it has the potential to surpass the character of Gewürztraminer when grown in the right location and properly made by a great winemaker. There are at least 10 states commercially growing Traminette, all of them either north or east of Missouri. We had only 22 acres growing in Missouri in 2001, which was the last time that an extensive vineyard survey was conducted. I am certain that the number of acres is more than that today. Crown Valley Winery and Chaumette Winery, both near Ste. Genevieve, are currently producing and selling Traminette, and the Röbller Winery in New Haven has several acres planted.
Just as its parent, Gewürztraminer, Traminette can be made into beautiful dry or semidry to sweet white wine. It has a huge depth of flavor with character of peaches, apricots, honey and spice and lovely floral aromas. The superb natural acidity perfectly balances a touch of sweetness. It has wonderful culinary potential, greatly complementing many full-flavored foods, especially those with some spice or heat. Traminette has proven it is truly possible for the child to challenge the fame of the parent.
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