Wasabi: That Green Blob Next to the Soy Sauce and the Ginger • by Sharon Arnot
Posted On: 02/04/2004 E-mail This To A Friend!

A number of years ago a friend might have said to me, “Let’s go to a sushi restaurant.” My reply would have been, “Where? In St. Louis?” Today however the same conversation might go something like this: “Hey, let’s go to a sushi restaurant tonight.” My response would be, “Which one?”

The explosion of sushi restaurants in St. Louis is astounding. I know there have always been a lot of sushi restaurants in bigger cities, but not here. Not until recently did St. Louis jump on the sushi bandwagon. What are all those different ingredients anyway? What is that green blob next to the soy sauce and ginger?

Although I don’t claim to know everything about sushi, I have done my homework on wasabi (that green blob next to the soy sauce and ginger). Wasabi is a root-like rhizome native to Japan. Cultivated in Japan since the 10th century, it grows naturally in a loose gravel bed in or near cold, shaded mountain streams with a constant supply of cool, running water. Now wasabi is also cultivated in fields under controlled conditions. Wasabi is a perennial plant, a member of the mustard family, and a cousin to cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. All parts of the plant can be used, including the leaves, which are sometimes pickled or ground and used to flavor other foods. The root however, is the best part. It’s the root or rhizome that is grated into a pasty condiment for raw fish, sushi or noodles. The ground root flavors many Japanese foods and the bright green color is a nice contrast to other foods on the plate. The “wasabi” flavor is spicy hot, clears your sinuses and makes your eyes water.

So, ideally the green blob next to the soy sauce and ginger would be real grated wasabi, but it most likely is not. Because of price and availability most restaurants use what the Japanese refer to as “Western Wasabi,” a mixture of horseradish, Chinese mustard, a little cornstarch and some green food coloring. Most often this concoction is sold in powdered form and mixed with water. Although the phony wasabi is good, it does not live up to the flavor of genuine wasabi. The taste of genuine wasabi is spicy hot at first, then fades to a slightly sweet vegetable taste.

Not only is wasabi hard to grow, it takes a very long time -- about eighteen months -- to mature to its marketable size. Wasabi grown in fields can take as long as three years to mature. The availability of wasabi and the fact that it is so expensive are the reasons most restaurants turn to phony wasabi. Real wasabi can cost between $70 to $100 per pound. One little root can set you back $8 to $10, which is why only an estimated 5 percent of sushi shops in Japan can afford to use real wasabi.

There is a chance that in the future wasabi will be more available and affordable. For years researchers have been trying to grow wasabi outside of Japan, hydroponically, in a greenhouse setting. The Pacific Northwest with its cool, damp climate turned out to be the perfect area. Pacific Farms in Oregon was one of the first success stories in greenhouse cultivation of wasabi. In 1991 the firm started importing wasabi plants from Japan. After five years of research and development they harvested their first crop, growing plants for their specially designed recirculating hydroponics system. By 1997 they began year-round, weekly harvesting of fresh wasabi for sale to wholesale companies and high-end restaurants. By 2000 they scaled back their commercial production (which they hope to restart in the near future). However, they still grow plants for customers who want to grow wasabi as a hobby. Currently, they import frozen wasabi roots which they make into fresh wasabi paste and sell in tubes. Frogfarm Wasabi in Seattle also sells wasabi. They sell bare root plants with detailed growing instructions to hobby growers and others. Here in St. Louis you can get real wasabi paste from Japan at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood.

When you do get your hands on fresh wasabi root, here are some tips to prepare wasabi to eat.

* Rinse the wasabi under cold, running water.
* Working toward yourself, scrape off any bumps using the back of a knife.
* Gently scrub with a stiff brush to dislodge any dirt.
* Cut the root just below the leaf stem.
* Hold the root at a 90-degree angle to the grater and grate, using a circular motion.
* Gather the grated root into a ball and wait a minute for it to develop its heat and flavor.
* Enjoy within 15 to 20 minutes.


It is also important to note that wasabi’s beneficial medicinal properties have been recognized in Japan since the 10th century. Wasabi’s heat comes from isothiocyanates, powerful antioxidants that may be useful in treatment and prevention of blood clotting, asthma as well as stomach, breast and prostate cancer, and to prevent tooth decay.

So now that you know a little more about wasabi and its impersonator, why not try out some wasabi recipes? Make an effort to get real wasabi, but if you can’t the phony stuff will still impress your guests.

* For more on Pacific Farms and ordering information visit www.freshwasabi.com
* For more on Frogfarm Wasabi and ordering information visit www.wasabifarm.com

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