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Stalking the Local Asparagus
• by Pat Eby
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Here’s a promise of spring: locally grown asparagus will be available mid-April. According to Allen Scharf of Scharf Farm near Millstadt, Ill., “It’s the first crop to come up. When the daffodils bloom, the asparagus starts up.”
This member of the lily family, cousin to both onions and garlic, grew wild on the banks of the Nile when pharaohs ruled. The Roman emperor Augustus loved asparagus and often said, “Let it be done quicker than you could cook asparagus.” Louis XIV’s passion for the aristocratic vegetable caused royal gardeners to raise it year-round in greenhouses. Asparagus appeared as early as April 6 in Washington markets, according to Thomas Jefferson’s market notes. That’s about a week earlier than Scharf Farm’s asparagus should arrive at Soulard Farmers’ Market this year.
“We don’t disturb the asparagus beds until the first of April, when we’ll clean them up,” said Scharf. “If you uncover before the soil warms, a cold snap could freeze it all.” The weather isn’t the farmers’ only difficulty raising asparagus. To control weeds, workers regularly cultivate the beds. And since the shallow crowns, as the roots are called, can be easily damaged, weeding is tricky. Weeds left untended, especially smartweed, cause another problem. “Japanese beetles love smartweed. When it’s gone, they move on to the asparagus ferns,” said Scharf.
Scharf’s harvests asparagus every day in the season, sometimes twice a day if there is a warm rain. Each spear is hand-cut. “With 10 acres under cultivation, we’ve relied on Eugenio Gomez and his family to help us grow asparagus for over 20 years. We simply couldn’t do it without their help,” Scharf said.
If you’re thinking about an asparagus bed at home, Bayer’s Garden Shops and Rolling Ridge Nursery both sell asparagus crowns. Patty Pollihan at Bayer’s said, “We’ve been in business 42 years, and we sell asparagus roots every year. Plus,we have printed directions for gardeners.” With care and maintenance, beds can produce for 10 to 15 years.
Sam Hilmer of Walnut Grove Farm in Eureka noted, “An asparagus bed needs several years just to get established.” He’s grown white asparagus the past six years, covering emerging spears with a plastic tarp to prevent exposure to sunlight, which causes spears to turn green through photosynthesis. This year, Hilmer plans to concentrate on his vineyards. Cooks looking for Hilmer’s white asparagus at Clayton Farmers’ Market in May will be disappointed. But, said Hilmer of his quarter-acre asparagus plot, “It’s nice to have a plentiful supply for myself. Fresh out of the field, I cut it, sauté and enjoy.”
Cooking fresh asparagus is uncomplicated. During asparagus season, Scharf’s wife, Nancy, has little time to fuss with food. “Allen likes asparagus steamed, just barely cooked, with a little butter or margarine,” Nancy Scharf said. “Our customers give us great recipes, but we don’t have time to try them.”
Asparagus can be a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Its form, flavor and color inspired Martin Kaplan and Joan Weber to create a variation of the classic salad niçoise using asparagus. The duo first cooked together at Marty’s Baking. They believe cooks need to be flexible. Kaplan said, “We grant ourselves permission to stray from culinary orthodoxy. With tender, firm asparagus spears just coming into their own, why not use them in place of traditional haricots verts for this salad? Besides, the green beans are rarely found in prime condition and cost more than T-bone steak.”
This spring, executive chef John Griffiths at An American Place will be looking for white asparagus and petite varieties of the green. “White asparagus has a subtle flavor. It’s magnificent to look at, the texture is delicate and it’s quite tender,” he said.
Whether at the family dinner table or in a restaurant, asparagus is sure to please this spring. Jefferson also noted the latest date asparagus appeared in Washington markets as June 27, so we have at least six weeks, maybe more, to enjoy.
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Asparagus Rules
Why buy local?
Asparagus is most tender and sweetest soon after picking. When harvested, cells continue to grow, despite being cut off from food and water sources. This natural process causes asparagus to convert its sugars to tougher fiber.
How to choose the best
Choose pencil-thin or pleasingly plump spears, but in green asparagus, look for the asparagus with the deepest color. For white asparagus, choose the lightest. Spears should be unblemished. Heads should appear tightly closed. Discolored, shriveled or slimy spears are only good for compost.
Bend or break the stalks?
Both John Griffiths, the executive chef at An American Place, and chef Marty Kaplan favor breaking spears. Kaplan said, “Let each spear tell you where it needs to break. Grasp the base of the spear and bend it until it snaps. That’s the point where the spear changes from tough to tender.”
Nancy Scharf of Scharf Farm near Millstadt, Ill., and Sam Hilmer of Walnut Grove Farm in Eureka favor cutting. Hilmer said, “You can feel the tough part with your knife. Cut just above it.”
To peel or not to peel?
If the covering seems tough, peel to within 1 inch of the head. Easier still, Griffith said, “Always peel if the spears are thicker than a pinkie finger.”
Steam, sauté, roast, microwave or boil?
Farmers and cooking mavens agree: Don’t boil asparagus. Each of the other cooking methods yields a different look, taste and texture. Most importantly, never overcook asparagus.
Asparagus Quiche
Courtesy of Nancy Scharf
Yield: 6 servings
1 9-inch piecrust, unbaked
1 cup shredded Gruyère Swiss cheese*
1 cup asparagus pieces
Chopped shrimp, bacon or ham, optional
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups liquid (half cream, half milk)*
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
• Prick the piecrust with a fork at 2-inch intervals. Bake it at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, until golden.
• Spread half of the cheese on the bottom of the pie shell.
• Arrange the asparagus pieces (and meat, if using) on the layer of cheese.
• Top with the remaining cheese.
• Lightly the beat eggs, liquids, salt and pepper. Pour over the asparagus.
• Bake at 375 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes until the eggs have set.
* Other cheese can be substituted, but the Gruyère flavor blends nicely with asparagus.
** Evaporated milk can be substituted for the milk.
Allen’s Favorite Steamed Asparagus
Courtesy of Nancy Scharf
Yield: 4 servings
1 lb. asparagus
1 Tbsp. butter or margarine*
• Cut or snap off the tough bottom portion of each spear.
• Rinse well in cold water.
• Steam the asparagus spears 5 to 8 minutes. Don’t overcook. Top with butter and serve immediately.
* Scharf recommended I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter! spray flavoring if you are counting calories or carbohydrates.
Niçoise Salad with Asparagus
Courtesy of Martin Kaplan and Joan Weber
Yield: 4 servings
Salad:
16 to 24 asparagus spears
1/2 tsp. tarragon
1/2 tsp. thyme
1/2 tsp. parsley
Ice water in a bowl
Leaf lettuce of your choice
Tomatoes of your choice (Roma, cherry, grape or homegrown)
8 small new potatoes with the skin on, steamed and chilled
4 hard-cooked eggs, cut in quarters
1 12-oz. can albacore tuna, drained; or a fresh tuna filet, poached or grilled then chilled*
6 to 8 plain artichoke hearts, canned or frozen, drained and quartered
20 to 24 Mediterranean-style olives
4 to 6 Tbsp. capers, drained
Steaming the asparagus:
• Add the tarragon, thyme and parsley to 1 quart water. Bring to a boil.
• Steam the asparagus on a rack until fork tender, approximately 5 minutes.
• Plunge the asparagus in the ice water to stop the cooking and drain.
Assembling the salad:
• Arrange the lettuce on individual salad plates or on a large platter with tongs for serving.
• Compose the salad by placing the asparagus, tomatoes, potatoes, egg wedges, tuna, artichoke hearts and olives in an artful design. Sprinkle the tuna with capers.
• Serve with vinaigrette dressing on the side.
Vinaigrette dressing:
1/4 cup vinegar (red wine, apple cider or balsamic)
1 tsp. fresh shallot, finely chopped**
1/2 tsp. dried tarragon or 1 tsp. fresh tarragon
1 tsp. dried parsley or 2 tsp. fresh parsley
1 tsp. anchovy paste
3/4 cup pomace olive oil***
Salt, pepper and brown sugar to taste
• Whisk together the vinegar, shallot, tarragon, parsley and anchovy paste.
• Slowly whisk the oil into the vinegar mixture to create an emulsion.
• Taste it and adjust the flavor with salt, pepper and brown sugar.
*If you don’t like tuna, substitute chilled shrimp or a fresh salmon filet or steaks, poached and chilled. Canned or smoked salmon is too strong for this salad
**A good substitution would be 1/2 teaspoon of finely chopped onion or garlic.
*** Canola oil or sunflower oil may be used.
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