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Cuisine d’Art serves comfort food with French flair
• by By Lisa Tebbe • Photo by Jonathan Swegle
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When you need time to slow down during the frenzied holiday season, why not head to a cozy little French café – in Creve Coeur? Cuisine d’Art (French for “kitchen art”), located in the Plaza Shops at Olive Boulevard and North New Ballas Road, offers a taste of Paris and a refuge to relax and re-energize. Weekdays, it serves mostly soups, salads and sandwiches. Weekend brunch features a diverse menu that includes French-inspired favorites like quiche, omelets and crêpes.
Beignets – the classic pillows of fried dough popularized at Café du Monde in New Orleans’ French Quarter – were a perfect start with a cup of coffee. With eight to an order ($3.49), there were plenty for sharing. Although they weren’t as airy as their Louisiana counterparts, the triangles were sweet, drizzled with honey and sprinkled with powdered sugar, crispy on the outside and light on the inside.
The Café Monte Cristo ($7.95) brings turkey, ham and Swiss cheese to new sweet-savory heights. The sandwich is dipped in egg batter, grilled, then dusted with powdered sugar and served with peach and raspberry jam. While it was definitely tasty, it seemed a little lonely on the plate; it could have used a simple fruit garnish.
The claim of “the best omelets made by a real chef” compelled me to try the “signature specialty.” Unfortunately, I was left wondering, “What’s so great, and why is it $8.95?” The predominant flavor was cooking spray. None of the ingredients stood out, and I had to add salt and pepper for flavor. On the bright side, the toast was wonderful. It was whole wheat, thick sliced and perfectly toasted.
French toast ($6.95) was decadent with its cinnamon-sugar coating, warm cherry sauce, maple syrup and whipped cream. There are three slices to an order; because it is sinfully sweet, you could go for a petite à la carte serving for $1.75.
The quiche ($8.95) is made fresh daily, and on one visit, I tried the roasted leek, sun-dried tomato and Gouda. It was a large slice with extra-firm custard that was light on ingredients and flavor. Maybe another combination would be tastier. The winner for me was the gratin ($8.95). Thick slices of marbled rye were topped with ham or smoked salmon, poached asparagus and tomato, then covered in Parmesan cheese sauce and broiled till bubbly. Served open-face, it was pure comfort food to dig into with fork and knife. A salad of fresh field greens dressed with balsamic vinaigrette rounded out the dish.
Desserts are plentiful. The Big Fat Chocolate Cake ($4.99) was at least six layers with thick, rich icing. The gooey butter cake ($4.99) was divine – and I’m not even a fan of the St. Louis staple. Its rich butter flavor, crackly top and moist middle left us fighting for the last forkful.
On the weekends, Cuisine D’Art offers table service (for breakfast and lunch during the week, you order at the counter). The wait staff, while pleasant, seemed inexperienced and a little scattered. On every visit, we waited for water and coffee refills. The food came out quickly, and in some cases, almost too quickly, but there’s no rush to leave.
When the weather warms up, the shady brick patio is a nice spot. The restaurant’s definitely made an effort to create a semiprivate environment that’s not bad for facing a parking lot in a strip mall. Inside is warm and inviting with gingham curtains, plaid banquettes, plants, flowers and French posters and artwork. A wall was added around the seating area to create a cozier feeling. Since the décor is decidedly French, it would be great to have Parisian music set the mood. Instead, the radio bleats from the sound system.
In the cold months ahead, you’ll find a comfy corner and food with French flair at Cuisine d’Art.
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