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  SAUCE MAGAZINE
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Mar 28, 2015
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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By the Book: Warm Pear Crumble

March 28th, 2015

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I love cooking seasonally. I refuse to buy zucchinis and tomatoes in winter, and I question the logic behind serving butternut squash risotto in June. But about this time each year, I find my resolve weakening. I’m desperate for something green and raw, and the thought of roasting one more carrot or sweet potato is enough to send me into fits. Are supermarket summer squashes imported from South America really so bad?

So when Veronica Bosgraaf’s Pure Food: Eat Clean with Seasonal, Plant-Based Recipes crossed my desk, I immediately flipped to her March recipes. Bosgraaf, who rose to fame with her line of organic snack bars, penned this cookbook to make simple, season-driven vegetarian meals using whole, unprocessed ingredients. Each chapter is dedicated to a month of produce, and as a fellow Midwesterner (she lives in Michigan), I imagine Bosgraaf can relate to my longing for springtime seasonality.

 

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Recipes for March still include those winter ingredients (oranges, carrots, cabbage, potatoes) and while she isn’t breaking any new ground with her dishes (curried carrot soup, pickled vegetables) they are definitely welcome respite from roasted everything. I chose to test Warm Pear Crumble, arguing that if we must eat winter produce, I wanted it paired with ice cream.

 

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Sauce intern Tori Sgarro had no trouble following Bosgraaf’s clear, simple instructions, though the recipe took nearly two hours after all the prep work and baking time. As with all crumble recipes, Team Sauce agreed that we wanted double the buttery, almond-oat topping. Admittedly that cuts down the health factor, but isn’t the buttery crust the real reason people make crumbles in the first place? The pear filling, while plentiful, fell flat; a pinch of salt did wonders to enhance the fruit flavor, and next time I’ll add depth with a bit of cinnamon or grated nutmeg. We served our crumble with a scoop of Serendipity’s Big O Ginger ice cream, which played nicely with the fresh ginger and added necessary richness.

 

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Warm Pear Crumble
4 to 6 servings

¼ cup (½ stick) plus 2 tsp. unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
¼ cup honey
2 Tbsp. tapioca starch
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¾ tsp. grated fresh ginger
6 firm, ripe Anjou pears, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
¼ cup rolled oats
½ cup almond meal
2 Tbsp. organic cane sugar
1/8 tsp. sea salt

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking dish with 2 teaspoons of the butter and set aside.
• In a large bowl, combine the honey, tapioca starch, lemon juic, and ginger. Add the pears and toss to coat. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish and cover loosely with foil. Bake until hot and bubbly, about 45 minutes.
• Meanwhile, put the oats in a food processor and process until coarsely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add the almond meal, sugar and salt. Add the remaining ¼ cup butter and, using a fork, blend in the butter until the mixture is crumbly.
• Remove the foil from the baking dish and sprinkle the crumble topping over the pears. Return the pan to the oven and cook until the top is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for at least 5 minutes before serving.
• Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

Reprinted with permission from Clarkson Potter Publishers

How do you get creative with winter produce in the last days before spring vegetables finally arrive? Tell us in the comments below for a chance to win a copy of Pure Food.

Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from #STL foodies

March 27th, 2015

Are you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemag
032715_tweetbeat

 

SPACEarchitects
Matt just saw a turkey getting a police escort on Wash Ave in front of ‪@TazeStreetFood!

schlaflybrewer
.‪@FemmeFerment & ‪@Schlafly crews bring you ‪#ElderflowerMaibock at start of ‪#StoutOysterFestival
https://twitter.com/schlaflybrewer/status/580758257146425345/photo/1

LigayaFigueras
Saw this on ‪@TheRareBarrel in ‪@nytimes.Asked ‪@Cory_King_ abt em.His answ:”I’m brewing a collab w them.”Mighta guessed
https://twitter.com/LigayaFigueras/status/579745397578424320/photo/1

AmuseDouche11
Smoked Brisket Benedict from ‪@quincystbistro. ‪https://instagram.com/p/0fkJR1igsv/

Dalebo
I always make sure my family eats the best on my day off.

Pivasan
My shit is custom!
Crafted by ddough @ Sump Coffee ‪https://instagram.com/p/0dcDHsDMfw/ 

Jaredbrewsbass
What’s funny is I think beer brackets are kinda silly. What we really need are ‪#taco brackets. That’ll get me to vote.

Mwanzi
do people really drink coffee at their COFFEE TABLE?

CroyAnne
Working on my Catcher in the Rye gelato with Defiance Whiskey. I predict an instant classic!
https://twitter.com/CroyAnne/status/581180866057113600

RhymesWithLost
Ugggggh. It’s trivia night at the bar. I just want to drink. ‪#shutup

 

Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemag

Drink This Weekend Edition: Malt-tease-Fashioned

March 26th, 2015

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Combine your love for beer and the harder stuff by using homemade beer syrup in a cocktail recipe. Use a big-flavored, hoppy beer, such as an ESB or IPA, to maximize flavor. The syrup complements a galaxy of cocktails, like the Tom Collins, Sazerac, pisco sour and Old-Fashioned, including the reimagined one here.

 
Beer Syrup
6 ounces

12 oz. hoppy beer, such as an ESB or IPA
6 oz. sugar

• In a small saucepan over medium heat, simmer the beer until reduced by half.
• Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. Syrup will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 month.

 

Malt-Tease-Fashioned
1 serving

2 oz. Spirits of St. Louis Regatta Bay hopped gin
½ oz. beer syrup
4 dashes Bittermens Hopped Grapefruit Bitters
2 grapefruit twists

• Combine the gin, beer syrup and bitters in a stirring glass with ice. Squeeze 1 grapefruit twist over the glass to release the oils, then drop it into the glass. Stir and strain into a rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with the remaining grapefruit twist.

 

-photo by Carmen Troesser

The Scoop: The Wood Cask to debut in former Eleven Mile House spot in Kirkwood

March 26th, 2015

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The Wood Cask is set to open doors at 10332 Manchester Road in Kirkwood this May, setting up shop in the former home of Eleven Mile House.

First-time restaurant owner Dan Marten said the 2,800-square-foot space is undergoing extensive renovation and will look nothing like its former occupant. The Wood Cask will seat 120 patrons, who can nosh on Southern-influenced cuisine. The menu, created by Marten and consulting chef Ben Welch, is divided between starters, entrees, sandwiches and flatbreads like The Cowboy, featuring shaved steak, whiskey-glazed onions, horseradish cream and smoked Gouda. Chef Zach Dale, formerly of Robust in Webster Groves, will take the reins as executive chef starting April 10.

True to its name, The Wood Cask will offer a wide selection of whiskey, bourbon and scotch, as well as an extensive list of wines by the glass and bottle. Eight draft beers will also be available from local breweries like 4 Hands and Civil Life, and more brews will be available in bottles. The Wood Cask will be open daily for lunch and dinner.

The Scoop: Copper Pig gastropub to open on Macklind Avenue

March 25th, 2015

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Macklind Avenue in the Southampton neighborhood will soon see yet another restaurant joining its burgeoning ranks. Owner Nhat Nguyen plans to open Copper Pig in mid-summer alongside neighborhood establishments like The Mack Bar & Grill and Macklind Avenue Deli and more recent additions like Russell’s on Macklind and Grapeseed.

Nguyen, who used to own now-shuttered Urban on South Grand, is currently renovating the space at 4611 Macklind Ave., which once housed an eco-friendly home goods store. “I bought the building in July and have been (working) with it ever since then,” he said. The 2,200-square-foot space will seat 40 to 50 inside, and Nguyen plans to install large panel windows in front that will open to let in fresh air in lieu of a patio.

Nguyen envisions The Copper Pig as a gastropub serving elevated bar food like pork belly and maduro Cubans. Look for a few dishes with Asian influences, too, like fish sauce-marinated wings and bulgogi cheesesteaks. Once a liquor license is approved, the bar will serve a wide variety of draft and bottled brews from the St. Louis area, as well as European and Belgian styles.

 

 

 

Baked: Chocolate-Orange Loaf with Greek Yogurt Sauce

March 25th, 2015

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Sometimes the best recipes are born from random ingredients in my refrigerator. During a recent healthy kick, I purchased a big container of Greek yogurt. I wanted to try a simple, citrus-y sauce that would pair well with a dessert. I started experimenting and later paired this tangy sauce with a chocolate-orange loaf, a perfect fudgy vehicle for my creation. Enjoy and happy baking!

 

Chocolate-Orange Loaf with Greek Yogurt Sauce
Adapted from a Smitten Kitchen recipe
Makes 1 loaf

1 cup packed brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
Zest of 2 oranges
½ cup plus 5 Tbsp. butter, softened, divided
1 large egg at room temperature
1 tsp. vanilla or orange extract
1 cup buttermilk
1½ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup cocoa powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. honey or maple syrup
¾ cup thick Greek yogurt
2 Tbsp. orange juice
1¼ cup powdered sugar

• Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter and lightly flour a standard loaf pan.
• In a large mixing bowl, rub the brown sugar, white sugar and orange together with your fingers
• Use a hand mixer to cream ½ cup butter into the sugar on high speed at least 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the egg and the vanilla or orange extract and beat until combined. Reduce the speed to low and beat in the buttermilk.
• Use a spatula to gently fold in the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt until combined and no streaks of flour remain. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan.
• Bake 60 to 70 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean with a few crumbs attached. Let cool completely.
• Meanwhile, in a medium mixing bowl, use a hand mixer to cream together the remaining 5 tablespoons butter and honey on high speed at least 5 minutes, until light and fluffy.
• Beat in the Greek yogurt and orange juice until smooth, then add the powdered sugar into the mixture until incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
• To serve, slice the cake and drizzle with the yogurt sauce or serve it on the side.

Guide to Beer 2015: By the Numbers – Schlafly

March 25th, 2015

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The Saint Louis Brewery has come a long way since its opening Dec. 26, 1991. How does The Lou’s first craft brewpub stack up 24 years later? Schlafly co-founder Dan Kopman breaks it down.

35 Employees when Schlafly opened in 1991

200  Employees in 2015

30 Average age of a Schlafly employee

14 States where Schlafly is distributed (plus the District of Columbia)

100+ Beer festivals attended annually

66,000 combined square footage of The Tap Room and Bottleworks

80 Recipes brewed each year

3 million Pounds of malted barley used annually

120,000 Pounds of hops used annually

19,828,800 12-ounce bottles’ worth of beer produced annually

19,500 miles How far Kopman will fly, one-way, for Australia’s and Tasmania’s hop harvest this April

1 Schlafly Pale Ale was the brewery’s first beer and remains its most popular.

4.1 percent Lowest ABV Schlafly beer, the raspberry Hefeweizen

14 percent Highest ABV Schlafly beer; the single-malt Scottish ale

2015: Debut year of the Ibex series of Schlafly nontraditional, artisanal brews

-photo by Carmen Troesser

The Scoop: Gerard Craft named JBFA finalist for Best Chef: Midwest

March 24th, 2015

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Finalists for the 2015 James Beard Foundation Awards were announced today, March 24, and one St. Louis-area chef remains in the running. Gerard Craft, chef-owner of the Niche family of restaurants, made the short list in the Best Chef: Midwest category. Craft was also among last year’s finalists in that category. “I think it’s a great testament to our team, that 10 years in, we are still part of the conversation,” Craft said. “To be included with that group of people is such an honor.”

St. Louis chefs who did not get past the semifinal round in the Best Chef: Midwest category are Kevin Willmann, chef-owner of Farmhaus; Ben Poremba, chef-owner of Elaia, Olio and Old Standard Fried Chicken; and Kevin Nashan, chef-owner of Sidney Street Cafe and Peacemaker. Ed Heath, chef and co-owner of Cleveland-Heath, was also in contention for the title of Best Chef: Great Lakes. Heath was a first-time JBFA semifinalist.

Among national awards, Annie Gunn’s was one of 20 restaurants named semifinalists in the Outstanding Wine Program category. The estimable fine-dining institution did not advance to the final round.

Winners of the chef and restaurant awards will be announced at a ceremony in Chicago May 4. A full list of nominees is available here.

 

Editor’s Note: This post was updated March 24 at 10:15 a.m. to include a quote from Gerard Craft.

The Scoop: Beer-focused 99 Hops House to open doors at Hollywood Casino

March 23rd, 2015

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Get ready to choose your next round from 99 (-ish) different brews when 99 Hops House opens doors at Hollywood Casino in the first week of April. This is the second location for the beer-centric sports bar; the original is located in another Hollywood Casino in Lawrenceburg, Indiana.

Food and beverage manager Rhaisha Dobbs said the sports bar offers around 100 different brews – 20 draft and 80 bottles – including local offerings like Schlafly, Six Row and Urban Chestnut. The restaurant has even gotten into the collaboration game, partnering with O’Fallon Brewery to make its original Hollywood Ale, which will be served in the restaurant and on the casino floor.

The food menu consists of pub grub classics like nachos, wings, hefty burgers, ribs and more, all with suggested beer pairings. Look for other local brews to make appearances as ingredients, such as the beer cheese soup made with Schlafly pale ale and O’Fallon’s amber ale in the batter for the fried cod sandwich. “We tried to stay with things our guests are going to be familiar with, plus we get to support our local industry,” Dobbs said.

Guests can forgo blackjack and slots for 99 Hops House’s dartboards, shuffleboards and Golden Tee video game, or they can kick back with a brew and watch the pros on one of 20 TVs scattered throughout the restaurant.

99 Hops House will be open Mondays and Thursdays from 4 p.m. to midnight, Fridays from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The restaurant will typically be closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays, opening for special events in the adjacent concert venue.

 

 

Meatless Monday: Pasta with Zesty Horseradish-Tomato Sauce

March 23rd, 2015

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We know, this recipe’s title seems a little weird; horseradish and pasta shouldn’t be a killer combo. But hear us out: we all like a good dollop of the spicy root in our bloody marys, right? The same idea applies here, when  a bowl of your favorite pasta is dressed up with a simple homemade tomato sauce (swap canned for fresh in these early spring months) and a handful of crunch toasted breadcrumbs and walnuts. Add as much or a little horseradish as you desire, then toss it all together and enjoy the subtle interplay of bright, spicy and crunchy. You just might start placing the jar of horseradish next the Parmesan every time you serve pasta. Get the recipe here.

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