The Scoop: The Chase fills executive chef spot
May 16th, 2012
The Chase Park Plaza has been seeking an executive chef to oversee the hotel’s culinary scene since the departure of chef Brian Hale this past winter. Today, the hotel announced that Kyle Lipetzky has been hired for the position.
Lipetzky will be responsible for the creative direction of Eau Bistro, Café Eau and the hotel’s catering operations. Among his first tasks is creating new menus for all of the restaurants at The Chase, according to hotel spokesperson Cathy Levendoski. What should diners expect when the new menus are unveiled later this summer? “I will combine modern techniques and plating with locally grown and sustainable ingredients, delivering a refreshed menu with simple yet tasty dishes that continue to elevate The Chase Park Plaza’s dining experiences,” Lipetzky noted.
Lipetzky comes to The Chase having worked most recently The Phoenician Resort & Spa in Scottsdale, Ariz., where he was responsible for half of the resort’s restaurants as well as in-room dining. Prior to that, Lipetzky worked at The Camelback Inn, a JW Marriott Resort and Spa, also located in Arizona.
By the Book: Hugh Acheson’s Braised Short Ribs with Hominy Stew
May 15th, 2012
All month long, we’re bringing you recipes and reviews from cookbooks and chef honored at this year’s James Beard Foundation Awards, which were announced earlier this month. So far, we’ve brought you the latest from Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America inductee Mark Bittman and Stephanie Izard, who was a finalist in the Best Chef: Great Lakes category. Now, we’re moving on Hugh Acheson, whose new book, A New Turn in the South, won a Beard Award in the American Cooking cookbook category this year. The book is pretty with handwritten tips, illustrations and big photographs of gorgeous food (and photos of the author himself sporting his now-famous unibrow). Acheson has three restaurants: Five & Ten and The National in Athens, Ga., and Empire State South in Atlanta. If you don’t know him from his restaurants, you may have seen him appear as a judge on Bravo’s Top Chef.
A lot of the recipes in this book are intense, some with hard-to-find ingredients and many requiring quite a bit of time. But they’re actually all humble dishes filled with comfort. If Southern food is your thing, like shrimp and grits (grits Acheson buys from Mills Farm, which makes grits in a mill … powered by a mule), succotash, fried okra, chess pie, fried chicken … this is the book for you. It’s classic dishes from the South with slight nuances and fun surprises.
I wanted to make Acheson’s braised short ribs with hominy stew. I love short ribs and, despite their reputation, they’re not just for wintertime. I mean, we have air conditioning these days. Slow-braised meat in May? Bring it on. The recipe was long but pretty simple, and the hominy stew was loaded with flavor from roasted green chiles, cumin, thyme and a rich braising liquid.
Would I make it again? Absolutely. In the dead of winter or the middle of a hot summer. Bring it on.
Braised Short Ribs with Hominy Stew
Short ribs are the comfortable recliner of braising. I liven them up with rich hominy stew featuring tomatoes, leeks and roasted chiles. You can find great canned hominy at most Hispanic grocery stores or well-stocked grocers.
4 (6-oz.) portions short ribs, trimmed of connective tissue
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium sweet onion, peeled and coarsely cut into large dice
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
1 celery stalk, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
1 dried ancho chile
2 bay leaves
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 cup dry red wine
3 cups beef stock or store-bought beef broth
2 cups canned hominy
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 leek, cleaned and cut into 1½-inch dice
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. canned roasted green chiles
1 lb. fresh tomato, peeled, seeded and cut to ½-inch dice
½ tsp. freshly ground cumin seeds
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
• On a large plate, lay out the short ribs and evenly rub with salt and pepper. Heat a cast-iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat. (If you do not have a Dutch oven you can sear in a cast-iron skillet and transfer to a casserole dish with a lid for braising.) Add the olive oil and sear all sides of the short ribs for 2 minutes per side. Make sure the hood vent is turned on before searing; this process is smoky!
• Add the onion, carrot and celery. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Add the chile, bay leaves, thyme and red wine. Cook to reduce the wine by about half.
• Add the beef stock and bring to a light simmer. Cover and place in the preheated oven. Allow to cook for 3 to 3½ hours, or until the meat is starting to pull away from the bone.
• Remove the short ribs from the Dutch oven. Place them on a large plate and set aside.
• Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the braising liquid into a 2-cup or larger maeasuring cup and discard the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaves and thyme. Skim all the fat off of the surface. If there is less than 2 cups of the braising liquid, add enough water to bring it up to 2 cups.
• Drain and rinse the honminy. Set aside.
• Lightly heat a 2-quart or larger soup pot. Add the butter, leek and garlic. Sweat the vegetables while occasionally stirring for 4 minutes. Add the roasted green chiles, the tomato, cumin, thyme and the 2 cups of braising liquid. Simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.
• Add the hominy and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the short ribs to reheat, spooning the hominy stew over them as they simmer for 5 more minutes.
• Turn off the heat and stir in the parsley. Ladle the stew into 4 bowls, nestling the short ribs on top.
(Note: I made a potato purée and used it as the base for this dish.)
Reprinted from A New Turn in the South by Hugh Acheson. Copyright © 2011. Photos copyright © 2011 by Rinne Allen. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division of Random House, Inc.
Have a dish that takes you forever to make but you keep coming making nonetheless? Tell us about it in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented For Your Kitchen. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column.
And now, to announce both of our By the Book winners from last week. We’d like to congratulate Sara, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won her a copy of Girl in the Kitchen and Nupur, whose comment on last week’s special-edition By the Book has won her a signed copy of Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts. Sara and Nupur, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew!
The Scoop: Vino Nadoz gets a new face in the kitchen
May 15th, 2012
There’s a new face at Vino Nadoz. Chris DiMercurio has joined the bistro and wine bar located at 16 The Boulevard in Richmond Heights as chef de cuisine. DiMercurio, 26, was formerly at Taste by Niche, where he had worked as a line cook since last November. Prior to that, the CIA graduate worked in the back of the house at various eateries in Vermont.
Although Trent Thrun remains executive chef for Steven Becker Fine Dining, parent company to Vino Nadoz, co-owner Kathy Becker told The Scoop that DiMercurio has “full reign of the kitchen” at Vino Nadoz. “He’s slowly putting his touch on things,” said Becker, noting that he has added items such as pâtés and house-made pickled vegetables to the menu since coming aboard two weeks ago. “He has a modern, contemporary vision. That’s what we want the direction of the wine bar to go [in].”
— Photo by Jessica Becker
Meatless Monday: A veggie burger adventure
May 14th, 2012
All too often, veggies burgers are an afterthought – thrown on the menu to satisfy that vegetarian void; no creativity required. So when I heard that the crew over at Baileys’ Range was making their veggie burgers from scratch, I was one of the first in line at the downtown burgers-and-shakes eatery. The burger had already won points for creativity: a thick pinto-bean patty with an avocado mousse and jicama slaw piled on top, sprinkled with a dusting of queso fresco. Sure, it was house-made, but it was also quite dry and lacked any pop of flavor. Bummer.
Fast forward six months and I’m returning to Range to taste the new veggie burger: still house-made but this time touting a black bean and chipotle patty, smothered with cranberry sour cream and an apple-jalapeño salsa. A sweet-and-spicy mixture is my weakness, so I was ready to be dazzled. The burger certainly wasn’t dry but rather too moist, to the point of downright greasiness. The house-made challah bun was good – light, fluffy, delicious – but it couldn’t stand up to the greasy patty and fell apart in my hands. I also found no hint of the chipotle that was promised and no spicy kick from that fruit-and-pepper salsa. Now, I can’t handle much capsaicin in the first place, so if this wimp couldn’t taste the spice, there certainly wasn’t enough.
Range is, of course, known for its beef – which, for curious carnivores, is both free-range and locally sourced – so it’s just a matter of time before the creativity and talent coming out of that kitchen turns out a darn good veggie burger, too. You can also swap a veggie patty for any of the burger combinations, so perhaps sticking with one like the Ozark – piled with local mushrooms, caramelized onions and black peppered goat cheese – would yield a superior supper. Sure sounds delicious.
And if you’re planning on stopping by Range for a Meatless Monday, don’t restrict yourself to the burger section of the menu. The salads, large enough to be dinner, knock it out of the park. Order up a big Fig Salad, pair it with a milkshake (preferably one of the boozy variety) and you’ve got a very nice way to start the week.
Just Five: Farmers Market Strawberry Grilled Cheese
May 14th, 2012
Years ago, my husband and I would get up on Saturday mornings and go to Soulard Farmers Market. We’d load up on produce, watch the doughnut guy do his thing, check out the live chickens and kittens, do some people watching, and then head home. Once we had kids, Saturday mornings became a bit busier and our trips to Soulard became more sporadic and eventually ceased.
In 2006, our brother-in-law, Patrick Horine, founded Tower Grove Farmers Market, and our Saturday mornings – when not taken up by soccer or softball games – were once again filled with fresh produce, crafts and family time. Two years ago, Webster Groves started a farmers market and thoughtfully located it two blocks from my home. Now I have two markets I go to each week. The point of all this? Hooray for the arrival of market season!
One of my favorite vendors at both markets is The Big Cheese. I look forward to a produce-inspired sandwich for breakfast at Tower Grove every Saturday morning, and my girls clamor for grilled cheeses for dinner on Thursday nights at the Webster Groves market. One of my favorite specials is the strawberry and mint grilled cheese, made with Marcoot Jersey Creamery’s Quark Cheese. So, in honor of all things local and seasonal, I present to you the Farmer’s Market Strawberry Mint Grilled Cheese sandwich.
All of the ingredients can be purchased at a local farmers market. Starting with the bread: I like to use Companion’s brioche for this sandwich; it’s wonderfully flaky when grilled. Local strawberries are abundant right now and so juicy and sweet, buying less than two quarts at a time is just downright foolish. Marcoot’s Quark Cheese spread is a fresh cow’s milk cheese – not quite as sweet as cream cheese, not quite as tart as chevre – that works nicely with the sweetness of the berries. Mint and honey battled basil and balsamic vinegar on this sandwich, but honey is local and balsamic is not.
So get out and support your local farmers this market season. We’re fortunate to have so many available, and food just tastes better when you buy it outside!
Farmers Market Strawberry and Mint Grilled Cheese
Adapted by Dee Ryan from a recipe by The Big Cheese’s Susana and Dave Lowell
1 Serving
Unsalted butter (softened)
2 slices Companion Brioche bread* (or other white bread)
2 to 3 Tbsp. Marcoot Quark cheese* (or spreadable mild goat cheese or cream cheese)
¼ cup strawberries, thinly sliced
5 mint leaves, thinly sliced
Drizzle local honey
• Lightly butter 1 side of each slice of bread.
• Spread the cheese on the unbuttered side of 1 of the slices of bread.
• Top the cheese with sliced strawberries and mint, and drizzle about 1 tablespoon of honey over the fruit. Top with the other piece of bread, buttered side facing out.
• Place a skillet over medium heat until hot. Place the sandwich in the skillet and lightly press down with a spatula. After 1 to 2 minutes, check to see if it is browned on the bottom. Once it is, carefully flip the sandwich and cook for another 2 minutes, or until the sandwich is browned on both sides.
• Remove from heat and sprinkle a pinch of kosher salt on top of the sandwich. Slice and serve.
* Available at Tower Grove Farmers Market
The Scoop: Breakfast now on the menu at Blues City Deli
May 14th, 2012
Back in December, we told you that Blues City Deli would soon be offering up hot and toasty breakfast fare to bustling Benton Park patrons. Well, it may have taken a little while longer than expected, but Blues City, located at 2438 McNair Ave., officially opened for breakfast this morning, serving a slew of breakfast options and locally roasted Mississippi Mud coffee.
Sticking with its sandwich bent, the deli is featuring six different breakfast sandwiches – ranging from the pork-centric to the vegetarian – all grilled on a panini press. Blues City is known for its flavor-packed, big-as-your-head fare and its breakfast sandwiches are no exception. The ‘wiches boast a bevy of creative combinations including eggs, meats, cheeses, veggies and house-made sauces, either on ciabatta bread or a biscuit from The Hill’s Vitale’s Bakery. Looking for something light? All sandwiches are available as Bambinos – smaller versions that boast only one egg instead of two. Prices range from $3.25 for biscuit sandwiches and Bambinos and $4 to $5.50 for larger varieties. Baked goods like bagels, muffins, bear claws and Danishes from Pratzel’s Eastgate Bakery are also available, and expect to see more made-from-scratch options to be added to the menu soon. “We’re going to get into other stuff later, but we’re keeping it simple right now,” owner Vince Valenza told The Scoop this morning. “Later on, we may do biscuits and gravy and some other things that we’ll figure out back in the kitchen.” Breakfast is available at Blues City Monday through Friday from 6:30 to 10:30 a.m.
— Pictured: No Meaty Panini: organic spinach, tomato, grilled peppers and onions with house-made tomato-basil cream cheese spread
Drink This Weekend Edition: Selsor swaps bourbon for bubbles
May 11th, 2012
When a chef switcharoo occurs, culinary onlookers wonder how the new face in the back of the house will impact the food that lands on diners’ plates. A similar question arises when a bartender changes digs. Nate Selsor worked behind the stick for a number of years at the now-defunct Monarch, serving up boozy, New Orleans-style classics at the Maplewood restaurant. Now, he’s managing the bar at DeMun Oyster Bar where bubbly is the typical match to slippery sea fare. The restaurant’s new drink menu launches today and Sauce, intrigued by Selsor’s shift from the world of bourbon and rye, asked the seasoned barman to show us some of his new creations.
Selsor’s cocktails are spring weather palate pleasers. They also fall squarely within the oyster bar’s atmosphere: refined elegance balanced with a free-spirited, you’re-invited-too mood. Yet Selsor has managed to work his own personality into the joie de vivre equation, particularly via his penchant for tweaking age-old drinks using less mainstream spirits and mixers. For example, Selsor’s twist on a French 75, called 75 Roses, showcases small-batch gin by Arkansas micro-distillery Brandon’s. Swedish punsch liqueur, Campari and lemon juice all add depth of flavor and body; a topper of sparkling rosé is the finishing touch that keeps this peach-colored drink apropos for a place like DeMun Oyster Bar.
With Pisco Flora, Selsor uses Fruitlab jasmine liqueur to lend a floral bouquet and flavor to a standard Pisco Sour. The newer-to-the-market organic liqueur also serves to sweeten the drink slightly, noted Selsor, so less simple sugar is needed to achieve balance among the grape brandy, tart lemon juice and a couple dashes of bitters.
Devil’s Fire is Selsor’s take on El Diablo, a vintage cocktail that pairs tequila and lime with sweet black-currant liqueur crème de cassis and ginger ale (or ginger beer for the majority of today’s recipes). Selsor keeps the tequila, lime juice and Cassis, but grabs local product The Big O ginger liqueur for the ginger kick, along with bittersweet Aperol. A topper of sparkling wine gives this deep berry-colored, stylish drink the DeMun Oyster Bar seal of approval.
Devil’s Fire is among the booziest drinks on the new menu – clocking in at 2 ounces of liquor, plus a splash of bubbles, yet the drink doesn’t feel weighty. That ¾ ounce of lime juice leaves its mark, and ginger follows on the back end; the drink remains on the mildly sweet side. “Crisp, light and refreshing,” summed Selsor of the new cocktails he’s fashioned. But, he added, “We can always do deep, dark if they want it.” Clearly, his former dark spirits days are not long behind him, but now that DeMun Oyster Bar is open daily for lunch, dinner and all hours in between, Selsor will be seeing a lot more light.
Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from STL foodies
May 11th, 2012
Are you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemagazine
Ericstl6
Upon discussing our youngest’s birthday plans for tomorrow, he’s insisted on the Farmer’s Market and dinner @Schlafly Bottleworks. #proud
2ndshiftbrewery
Some fools put a Charleville Brewery sticker on my truck
littlebitocd
Pain au chocolat for lunch. Butter and sugar will get me through the day. #pahn #notpayne
13blog
Someone in this office has fried potatoes and I do not. Someone might get cut..
KathleenND
Klout says I’m influential about burritos. This is what happens when you dream big, kids.
loganalexander
Chirashi at Kampai and some free soju from a guy named Todd at the sushi bar. St. Louisans are so nice.
ianfroeb
Highlight of the James Beard Awards so far: Charlie Trotter telling NYC audience Chicago is the best restaurant city.
jamingray
I’m craving carrots, cabbages, slightly stale bread, and rabbit. Damn you, #gameofthrones
kguymon
I’m really getting into this yard work stuff. Nothing like drinking a glass of wine at the end of the day with dirty fingernails.
Shep133
Hey fuck you North Carolina. You don’t deserve all those new breweries. #Missourisuckstoo
beth_erin
It was the kind of afternoon that made me want to quit or cry. So instead I bought a bottle of wine and a bag of Doritos.
theRobRussell
It’s going to be a long day waiting for 5p so I can go to #FoodTruckFriday
Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemagazine
10 Tips for Food Truck Friday
May 10th, 2012
It’s that time of year again: Food Truck Friday is back! (Find out everything you need to know here.) For those of you came to the first season of this exciting event, you know just how awesome of an experience it is. You also know that having a few tricks of the trade under your belt can make the event a whole lot better. Never been to Food Truck Friday before? No worries. Here are 10 tips for making this Food Truck Friday the best yet!
Get a helpful map for the event here.
1. Be early: The early bird gets the cupcake.
2. Bring seating: chairs or blankets and mark your turf.
3. Divide and conquer: Hit up a few different trucks with friends, then share the goodies.
4. Find a volunteer: Volunteers will be able to answer questions and direct you to your favorite trucks.
5. Park far from the trucks: longer trek but faster getaway.
6. Hitch a ride: Mini of St. Louis will have Countrymen roaming the park to help get hungry truckies to the event.
7. Make a night of it: Enjoy the community atmosphere while waiting in line or lounging on the lawn.
8. Something old, something new: Enjoy your favorite food truck dishes and try something new. Who knows? You just might find a new go-to.
9. Tell your friends: Tweet your favorite dishes #FTFfave so friends and fellow truckies know what to order.
10. Recycling matters: Take a minute to put the proper containers in trash or recycling bins. Clearly marked cans and bins will be all along the line, making it easy to keep the park as clean as it was when you arrived.
Most of all, have fun! This is an event where some of the city’s most creative culinary minds come together. Enjoy the food, the park and the people!
More from our May issue + a book giveaway
May 10th, 2012
Don’t get us wrong; we love print. But unfortunately, not everything can fit inside a single issue. That’s why we bring you Extra Sauce, where we share everything we couldn’t fit into the pages of our issues. From interviews to recipes – and more recipes, we reveal what you won’t see as you flip through the May issue.
In this month’s feature story My Last Meal, we revealed six local chefs’ answers to the age-old question: What would you want for your last meal? But did you know we actually asked 18 area culinarians the ultimate kitchen query? Talk about research. Unfortunately, we couldn’t fit all 18 answers into the magazine, but hey, that’s what the Internet is for, right? We’ll be sharing the rest of the answers right here in Extra Sauce throughout May, so check back all month long to see how more of your favorite culinary faces would culminate a great life with a heavenly spread.
But wait, there’s more. You can join in on the conversation, too. Find us on Facebook or Twitter and let us know what you would have for your last meal using the hashtag #MyLastMeal. At the end of the month, the reader with our favorite answer will win a brand new copy of Mealnie Dunea’s My Last Supper: The Next Course.





