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  SAUCE MAGAZINE
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Jun 30, 2016
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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The Scoop: The Wandering Sidecar Bar offers mobile beverage service

June 29th, 2016

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A chic, new way to host an open bar at your next event has hit the pavement. The Wandering Sidecar Bar, brainchild of co-owners Tiffany and Dave Unger, is a souped-up camper customers can rent for beverage service at private event. Tiffany Unger said she discovered the concept last November in a magazine and wasted no time in replicating it. The couple bought a 1960 Avalon camper, renovated it and hosted their first event June 10.

The operation is simple. With 18 years of bartending experience behind her, Unger helps clients build a beverage menu for their event and gives them a shopping list of alcohol and mixers for that menu. At the event, she bartends and while Dave Unger barbacks. They provide the drinking vessels, ice and drink garnishes and additional services as needed.

“It’s a unique, one-of-a-kind service,” said Unger. “We take over and take care of everything. The venue we provide is an added perk, something that draws attention.”

Unger thought their concept would attract primarily weddings, but requests to work events from birthdays to block parties have pleasantly surprised her. She would also like to see their camper used in unintended ways like a retail cart or to serve as a water and lemonade stand for large events.

“Being involved in the community is very important for us,” said Unger. “We don’t want to be pigeonholed as a wedding vendor. We want to be out in the community doing things like food truck events, getting out there and being seen.”

Unger said a renovated 1967 horse trailer will soon join the mobile fleet. “We’re a new company ready to explore options,” she said. “We feel like we have a really cool product and give really good service. I don’t think we have limitations to what we can do.”

 

The Scoop: Ownership changes at Thurman Grill, Winfield’s Gathering Place and Melt say farewell

June 29th, 2016

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For 10 years, Thurman Grill & Provisions has served the Shaw neighborhood, but tomorrow, June 30, the pilot lights will go out – at least for a time.

Thurman Grill owner Larry Weinles is selling the business to Doug Fowler, who is keeping tight-lipped about his plans for the restaurant. Fowler said he hopes to reopen on Aug. 1 as Thurman’s in Shaw.

Weinles’ said he plans to catch up on some sleep. “I’ve been in the business since 1981,” he said. “It’s not that I don’t enjoy doing this but 72-hour work weeks are hard. I’m tired and ready to enjoy my life.”

This weekend also marks the last meal at Winfield’s Gathering Place in Kirkwood. As reported by St. Louis Magazine the restaurant will close this Saturday, July 2. The sports bar, located at 10312 Manchester Road in Kirkwood, opened in January 2015.

Owner Mark Winfield thought it was time to move on. “Twenty years in the food industry is a long time,” said Winfield, who also co-owned The Precinct Sports Bar & Grill and Jim Edmonds’ 15 Steakhouse. He will take a sales position and spend more time with his daughters. “We appreciate your business, and we’re sad to go, but everyone at the restaurant we’ve found jobs for, so everyone is taken care of,” he said. “The future is bright.”

Other recent closings include Melt at 2712 Cherokee St., which announced its closure June 6 on its Facebook page. “We had hoped to be open longer, but due to circumstances beyond our control, and because it was only fair to our staff to be properly staffed, as well as our patrons to get the service they deserve, this is effective immediately,” the announcement read. Melt ownership did not return request for comment.

 

Mitch Mackowiak contributed to this report. 

By the Book: Onion Carbonara from Food 52: Genius Recipes

June 29th, 2016

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Pasta carbonara is the ultimate indulgence. Who doesn’t love long spaghetti noodles coated in cream, egg, cheese and bacon? As the internet can attest, the rich sauce goes well on just about anything from squash to steak, but when I came across this recipe for onion carbonara I was skeptical. Did I really want to eat a pile of onions?

As it turned out, I did. This recipe isn’t just a testament to carbonara’s transformative powers; it’s a nod to the versatile, humble onion. Gently steaming thin slices removes their bite and renders them al dente. They’re a sweet base (or topping) for anything, and simple, quick carbonara was no exception.

Don’t worry if it’s still a healthy choice to swap low-calorie onions for high-carb pasta when there’s bacon, butter and heavy cream in the mix. Just grab a fork and dig in.

Skill level: Beginner to medium. Some recipes are drop-dead simple while others require more kitchen experience.
This book is for: People who love classic recipes with a few ingenious tricks to make them easier.
Other recipes to try: Salt-crusted beef tenderloin grilled in cloth, black pepper tofu, no-knead bread
Verdict: Carbonara steals the show from cheesy skillet bread and greens.

 

BTB_Jun16_Round3_2

 

Onion Carbonara
4 servings as a starter, 2 servings as a main dish

4 oz. (110 g.) sliced applewood-smoked bacon
3 large yellow onions (about 12 oz./340 g. each)
½ cup (120 ml.) heavy cream
1 large egg yolk
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Fine seas salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling

• Stack the slices of bacon, wrap in plastic wrap and place in the freezer to firm. This will make them easier to cut.
• To cut the onions using a meat slicer, cut off the root end of each onion and discard. Then cut off the other ends. With a paring knife, core each onion by cutting a cone-shape from the root end of the onion, much as you would remove the stem of an apple. Stand each onion on one end and cut a vertical slit from top to bottom, just reaching the center. This will result in long strands of onion rather than rings when the onion is sliced. Set the slicer to cut 1/8-inch (3 mm.) slices. Place a flat end of an onion against the blade and slice. Alternatively, to cut by hand, leave the root ends intact, but cut a slit in each onion as above, then cut across the onion to make 1/8 (3 mm.) slices. Separate the onion slices into strands. Place the longer strands in a bowl and reserve the shorter ones for another used. You should have about 8 cups (1.9 liters) loosely packed onions.
• Place a steamer basket in a pot over simmering water. Place the onion strands in the basket, cover, and steam for 5 to 10 minutes. Taste one to make sure the sharp onion flavor has mellowed to your liking. Remove the basket from the pot. (This can be done a few hours before serving.)
• Remove the bacon from the freezer, unwrap and cut crosswise into 1/8-inch (3 mm.) strips. Put in a large nonstick skillet and saute over medium-high heat, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until crisp and browned.
• Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together ¼ cup (60 ml.) of the cream and the egg yolk. Set aside.
• Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour out the fat and wipe the pan clean with a paper towel. Return the pan to the burner. Add the butter and melt over medium heat. Add the bacon and the remaining ¼ cup cream and simmer 30 seconds. Add the onions and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Toss and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the onions are hot. Remove the pan from heat and stir in the reserved cream mixture and the Parmesan. Taste and add additional seasoning if needed.
• With a pair of tongs, lift each portion, letting excess sauce drip back into the pan and arrange in small mounds on serving plates. Serve sprinkled with additional Parmesan, if desired.

Reprinted with permission from 10 Speed Press

The Scoop: Pastaria’s Ashley Shelton wins Eater Young Guns competition

June 29th, 2016

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Ashley Shelton of Pastaria took the top prize in Eater’s Young Guns competition, becoming the first St. Louis chef to win. The winners were announced on June 28, 2016.

“It’s inspiring,” said Shelton. “It’s great to be noticed and it’s humbling because it takes a whole team to do what we do every day. I have to thank them the most.”

Shelton was one of 4,000 nominees in this year’s competition. The nomination process is open, with anyone invited to send in a name for consideration.

All the vetting and judging for the contest was done via email and personal interviews. As Shelton moved into the final rounds, she answered questionnaires and submitted references.

“I got the email [notifying the first place win] at home and the dog started freaking out because I was screaming,” she said.

Shelton spent the weekend in Los Angeles where the 19 finalists, their families, media and industry pros were invited to a party celebrating the best of the best. It only took two hours for Shelton to run out of the 700 portions of the andouille arancini she cooked for the occasion.

With recognition on a national stage, this is not the last we’ll hear of Shelton.

-photo by Carmen Troesser

The Scoop: Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop to replace The Demo in The Grove

June 28th, 2016

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{Gezellig Taphouse & Bottleshop owner Brandon Cavanagh} 

 

Hop heads will have a new hangout when Gezellig Taphouse & Bottleshop opens its doors in late September or early October at 4191 Manchester Road in The Grove. Currently the home of The Demo, co-owner Brandon Cavanagh plans to shutter the music venue on July 9 and renovate the space with a beer selection partially inspired by his European travels.

“We want to capture the feeling of Amsterdam,” said Cavanagh. “On a trip abroad, I visited Cantillon Brewery. It’s a special place, and some of their beer makes it here. I’m looking forward to getting our hands on it.”

The 30 beers on tap and more in bottles will be a mix of local beers and rare, international beers. “The focus is on large-format specialty beers from around the world,” he said. “We’re not trying to pigeonhole into any one niche area.”

Accommodation is the name of the game for Gezellig, which will be both a bar where suds seekers can hang out and sample or a bottle shop where a brew hound can swing in, grab a bottle and head home.

Food offerings are currently in the works and Cavanagh hopes to add a full kitchen in the future.

Baked: Chicken Biryani

June 28th, 2016

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Biryani is a spiced rice dish with roots in countries across the Middle East and South Asia. It is essentially a layered baked dish that alternates spiced rice and marinated meat. My sister came up with this recipe and after she shared it with me, I passed it on to her.

Though biryani can be spicy, I’ve kept it minimal here, but feel free to add more to your taste. Shan brand spice packets can be found at Global Foods Market and Indian specialty markets. Serve this dish with a side of raita, a cooling Indian yogurt side that will calm the spice. Enjoy and happy baking!

Chicken Biryani
4 to 6 servings

½ cup milk
1 tsp. saffron
2 cups basmati rice
4 peppercorns
2 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp. vegetable or canola oil, plus more for frying
½ large onion, thinly sliced
4 roma tomatoes, quartered
¼ cup European-style plain yogurt
6 cloves garlic
2 to 3 Tbsp. Shan Spice Mix for Special Bombay Biryani*, cardamom seeds removed, plus more to taste
2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
4 Tbsp. (½ stick) butter, thinly sliced and divided
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
Raita for serving (recipe follows)

• Warm the milk in a small pot over medium heat. Remove from heat, pour into a small bowl and soak the saffron in the milk. Set aside.
• Cook the rice according to package directions, adding the peppercorns, cloves and cinnamon stick before cooking. Let cool completely. Remove the aromatics, if desired.
• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
• In a large pan with high sides, warm 1 inch oil over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onions and fry until medium to dark brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the onions and place on a paper towel-lined plate and let cool. Set aside.
• In a blender, puree the tomatoes, yogurt, garlic and spice mix together in a blender until smooth. Set aside.
• In a clean nonstick skillet, warm 1 teaspoon vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and brown on all sides, then stir in the yogurt mixture. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes.
• In an 8-by-10-inch baking dish, spread half the rice in an even layer, followed by ¼ cup of the milk and 2 tablespoons butter. Add the chicken and cover with the remaining rice, ¼ cup milk and butter. Sprinkle with mint.
• Cover with foil and bake 15 minutes. Garnish with the fried onions and serve with raita on the side.

Raita
1½ cup

½ cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1 cup European-style plain yogurt
3 Tbsp. water, plus more to taste
2 Tbsp. sugar, plus more to taste
2 tsp. chaat masala*

• In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Season to taste with sugar or water

*Shan spice mixes and chaat masala are available at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood or Indian specialty markets.

Meatless Monday: Farro Salad with Roasted Mushrooms

June 27th, 2016

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One pot and one sheet pan is all that’s required for this filling vegetarian meal. Roast cremini mushrooms, grape tomatoes and shallots, while a pot of farro bubbles away on the stove. Drain the grain, then combine in a large serving bowl with the roasted veg and bright parsley. Serve atop a bed of peppery arugula or earthy spinach and sprinkle with your favorite sheep’s milk cheese for added richness. Click here for the recipe.

The Scoop: Fort Taco to open another location in St. Charles

June 27th, 2016

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St. Charles will have a new fast and easy taco joint this summer. Fort Taco, slated to open July 1 will be located at 3788 Elm St., in the old Daylight Donuts space.

Co-owner Elizabeth Sedlock said there was high demand for the Mexican-American eatery. “We got tons of requests to open a location in St. Charles,” she said.

The menu will feature the same three signature items as the flagship location in Brentwood: a Puffer Taco (a fried flour shell filled with ground beef or chicken), an Enchee (an enchilada-like pocket stuffed with potatoes, peas and cheese) and a tamales with house-made masa, chicken and ancho chile sauce.

The 1,000-square-foot space holds 20 seats inside, while there are 16 seats available outside and a drive-thru. Fort Taco will be open Monday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The drive-thru will be open until 10 p.m. in the summer through September.

 

The Scoop: Seoul Taco rolls out second truck

June 24th, 2016

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Seoul Taco is on a roll this year. Owner David Choi opened the fourth Seoul Taco location in Chicago just three weeks ago, and announced today that a second food truck will hit the streets in STL this Monday, June 27. The popularity of the original truck at private events, food truck events and lunch service made a Seoul sister the most logical expansion step.

“The (food truck’s) whole summer was fully booked by February,” Choi said. “We’ve been to some really good lunch spots with the blue truck, but with our bookings could only make it to those places every other month.”

The menu at the new red truck will feature Choi’s signature Korean barbecue street food with the potential for some additional creativity. And that creativity is not confined to the menu: Choi has partnered with The St. Louis MetroMarket, a nonprofit mobile food market bringing fresh food to our city’s food deserts. On MetroMarket Mondays, all proceeds from the red Seoul Taco truck will benefit the mobile market.

“Relationships are so important,” Choi said. “The partnerships we have and being involved in the community is part of what’s helped us grow. It’s about connecting with people and the community.”

Weekly schedules for both Seoul Taco trucks will be announced Sundays on Twitter and on Seoul Taco’s website.

The Scoop: The Sweet Tooth opens a brick-and-mortar in Belleville

June 24th, 2016

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If you’re hankering for a dose of sweets, The Sweet Tooth opened its first brick-and-mortar location on Saturday, June 18 at 4004 W. Main St. in Belleville.

The Sweet Tooth began as a candy van, then a food truck doling out chocolate-covered strawberries and funnel cakes. Owner Jeff Green was ready to expand. “In a food truck you only have so much room,” he said. “I wasn’t allowed to have candy apples. It’s hard to keep temperatures on all that stuff.”

The 2,000-square-foot restaurant will seat around 35 for sweets, lunch and dinner. The menu features tacos, loaded fries and nachos like the signature Hell Yeah Nacho, with up to eight different kinds of meat, a chipotle-based spice blend, sauteed onions and toppings over tortilla chips. Green also hopes to offer a Jersey burger – two glazed donuts sandwiching a beef patty – and ice cream.

In the next four weeks, the Belleville location will sport a 6-foot stage and outdoor seating for 125 for live music on the weekends.

The grand opening of The Sweet Tooth will be on Halloween. In the meantime, you can stop in Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 6 p.m.

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