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  SAUCE MAGAZINE
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Dec 11, 2016
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Drink This Weekend Edition: Miracle on Chouteau Pop-up Bar

December 10th, 2016

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{ Yippie Ki Yay Mother F****r! }

 

If the crowds are any indication, St. Louis apparently had a deep need of a Christmas-themed pop-up bar like Miracle. It’s like spending time in your holiday-obsessed grandmother’s basement, surrounded by decorations collected over the past 40 years – only better, since you can escape your family and sip on drinks made by the crew at Planter’s House.  

Located at 1740 Chouteau Ave. (just look for the glow of hundreds of Christmas lights in the windows), drinks like the Jingle Bell Nog or Bad Santa hot milk punch feel right in this Christmas tree forest, but I’m partial to the cocktails with a tiki vibe on the menu.

Yule Be Singing features Plantation 3 Star Rum with Velvet Falernum, lime and a Champagne topper for an unexpected, sweet-tart holiday treat. And nothing can compete with the Yippie Ki Yay Mother F****r!, a tiki tipple with two kinds of rum, pumpkin-almond orgeat and lime juice served in a Santa mug dusted with powdered sugar.     

Plan on arriving early if you don’t want to wait, but there’s no bad seat, since every chair sports a Santa hat, and the whole place is dripping with tinsel and twinkle lights. Enjoy a cup of good cheer every day through Dec. 24.

Extra Sauce: 4 gifts on Meera’s holiday wish list

December 9th, 2016

From memorable cookbooks to a ridiculously gorgeous range, here’s what Sauce art director Meera Nagarajan really wants this holiday season.

 

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1. Nopi: The Cookbook
On a recent visit to London, I had a beautiful lunch at Yotam Ottolenghi’s Nopi. The highlight of the meal was the pan-fried mackerel served with tamarind sauce and raw coconut salad – which I can now make any time thanks to Ottolenghi’s latest cookbook.
$40. Left Bank Books, left-bank.com

 

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2. Kentuckyaki Sauce
Wandering The Smokehouse Market on the hunt for a clever weeknight dinner idea, butcher Andrew Jennrich suggested this sauce. I soused leftover chicken and broccoli for instant teriyaki magic with a bourbon twist.
$12. The Smokehouse Market, anniegunns.com

 

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3. Plantation Pineapple Rum
Fruity rums are all the rage – and I don’t mean Malibu. I’m talking aged rum infused with ripe fruit. Try sipping this neat or over ice before you attempt a grown piña colada.
$35. Lukas Wine & Spirits, lukasliquorstl.com

 

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4. Grand Palais 180
Remember the ranges inside Gusteau’s kitchen in Pixar’s Ratatouille? I do. The closest thing I’ve found to them in real life is the La Cornue Grand Palais 180 in brilliant black with brushed brass. I would never try to justify buying a $22,800 range, but it is spectacular – and I’m worth it.
Starts at $22,800, lacornue.com

 

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More Holiday Gift Guides
• Holiday Gift Guide: 5 gifts for the person you have to shop for
• Holiday Gift Guide: 5 gifts to stock a starter kitchen
• Holiday Gift Guide: 5 gifts for your boozehound
• Holiday Gift Guide: 5 gifts for the Food Snob

 

Ratatouille image courtesy of Disney 

Just Five: Chicken with Porcini and Cherries

December 9th, 2016

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During a recent cleaning frenzy (there were mice – I don’t want to talk about it), I unearthed a jar of dried porcini mushrooms that got shoved to the back of my pantry. I also came across a jar of dried cherries during my epicurean archeological dig, and just like that, a recipe was born. Earthy porcini infuses the cooking liquid, and dried cherries add texture, as well as a sweet and tart bite. H/t mice.

 

Chicken and Porcini and Cherries
4 servings

2 cups chicken stock
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 small leek, trimmed and thinly sliced
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup dried cherries

• Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
• In a medium sauce pot, bring the chicken stock to a simmer over medium heat. Add the porcini mushrooms, cover and remove from heat.
• In a large oven-safe skillet, warm the oil over medium heat and saute the leeks 5 minutes, until soft and starting to brown. Sprinkle the chicken liberally with salt and pepper, the place skin side-down in the skillet. Sear 3 minutes, then flip and sear another 3 minutes. Slowly pour in the chicken stock and mushrooms, then add the cherries and simmer 3 minutes.
• Place the skillet in the oven and cook 5 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Serve, spooning the pan sauce over the chicken.

 

 

First Look: Gezellig in The Grove

December 7th, 2016

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The Grove continues to step up its beer game with the recent addition of Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop. As The Scoop reported in July, owner Brandon Cavanagh closed his music venue, The Demo, to open a beer bar partially inspired by his travels to Amsterdam.

The Dutch word “gezellig,” Cavanagh explained, refers to a cozy, convivial environment or a sense of togetherness among loved ones. It’s a concept he hopes his bar embodies with its dark wood, Edison lighting and the soft pop of vinyl albums playing over the speakers.

The space can seat up to 80 and serves as both a bar and bottle shop with a wall of refrigerators organized by region. Two are dedicated to local Missouri and Illinois brews like Schlafly, 2nd Shift, Perennial, Logboat and Boulevard. Several national labels are available, as well as international offerings from Belgium, Denmark, Sweden and more. Bottled and canned brews can be purchased for onsite consumption or to-go.

Twenty-eight taps are available, and Cavanagh hopes to keep the selection rotating frequently by only featuring seasonal and special release beers. Local barman and assistant manager Joel Clark supports the beer averse with wine, bottled cocktails and spirits available neat or on the rocks. Look for a tight selection of mostly whiskey, mezcal and gin. Cavanagh said he is currently working with area restaurants Sauce on the Side and The Gramophone to coordinate food delivery, and customers can bring their own carryout to Gezellig.

Gezellig is currently open Tuesday to Thursday from 3 to 10 p.m., Friday from 3 to 11 p.m. and Saturday from noon to 11 p.m. Here’s a first look at what to expect at The Grove’s new beer bar:

 

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Related Content
Gezellig Taphouse & Bottleshop to open in The Grove

First Look: Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods in The Grove

First Look: Intoxicology in The Grove

Photos by Michelle Volansky

First Look: LuLu Asian Kitchen in Olivette

December 6th, 2016

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LuLu Seafood and Dim Sum has gone fast-casual with its first LuLu Asian Kitchen location, now open at 9626 Olive Blvd., in Olivette. As The Scoop reported in July, another LuLu Asian Kitchen location will soon open at 9737 Manchester Road in Rock Hill, with more locations in the works.

Popular staples from Lulu Seafood and Dim Sum will be rotating entrees at Lulu Asian Kitchen, along with more traditional Chinese dishes and some exclusive to the new concept, like the caramelized bourbon chicken, which makes use of the new kitchen’s grill.

Entrees can be ordered in different combinations as bowls, plates or platters, or folded into Asian burritos with rice and toppings. There are also soups, salads and lighter to-go options like spring rolls and sushi. Fountain drinks are joined by a handful of beer and wine offerings.

“The quality is the same as the main location. We just have more limited options and faster service,” said co-founder Julia Li.

Lulu Asian Kitchen is open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. There will be a grand opening event on Wednesday, Dec. 14 from 3 to 9 p.m. with free food and drink. Here’s a first look at what to expect from Olivette’s new fast-casual spot:

 

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More about LuLu Asian Kitchen
• The Scoop: LuLu Asian Kitchen to open in Olivette and Rock Hill

What I Do: Julia Li of Lu Lu Fresh Express

• First Look: LuLu Chicnese and Dim Sum Truck

Photos by Michelle Volansky

 

Extra Sauce: In case you missed it…

December 4th, 2016

From the 10 Best New Restaurants of 2016 to a new restaurant from Matt McGuire, here’s what went down last week in the STL food scene, in case you missed it…
 

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1. Our December issue featuring the 10 Best New Restaurants of 2016 hit stands this week. Click here to read the entire issue online now.

2. Guerrilla Street Food has found a second home – inside the new Tropical Liqueurs. As The Scoop reported in June, Tropical Liqueurs is moving from its current location in Soulard to at 4104 Manchester Ave., in The Grove. Its last day in Soulard is this Sunday, Dec. 4.

 

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3. Just in time for holiday shopping, Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods has opened doors at 4180 Manchester Ave., in The Grove.

4. A new space for nightlife is developing at 3601 Grandel Square as The Dark Room Wine Bar & Photo Gallery prepares to move from its current location at 615 N. Grand Blvd., to the Grandel Theater.

 

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5. Niche Food Group alum and owner of the former King Louie’s Matt McGuire will open Louie (without the King) in part of the former Jimmy’s on the Park space.

6. Citygarden is minus a lunch spot (at least for now) as Death in the Afternoon served its last bowl of ramen on Wednesday, Nov. 23.

By the Book: Hubert Keller’s Souvenirs by Hubert Keller and Penelope Wisner

December 2nd, 2016

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Paging through Hubert Keller’s memoir/cookbook is intimidating. The man grew up in a kitchen in France. He’s cooked on more continents than I’ve been to. He’s served presidents and is apparently really into DJing (actually that last one made him more approachable thanks to goofy photos of him spinning with some guy named Frenchy Le Freak).

There are some seriously daunting recipes. I wasn’t going to make brioche dough, pastry cream, poached pears and a glaze all for one dessert. But further reading turns up milkshakes and a beer burger, too. The book is about his life, which hasn’t taken place entirely in fine-dining kitchens.

I chose to make the appropriately French but delightfully simple Galette des Rois – the traditional French king cake made with puff pastry and a rich almond filling. I’d made this seasonal dish before, but Keller’s recipe was better with a nice rum addition to the filling and an egg yolk wash that made the pastry brown and glisten (all my egg washes will be yolks-only from now on). The cake is practically done for you with frozen puff pastry – I’ll definitely make this again.

Skill level: French. Some recipes are simple with big payoff, but some are fine-dining level and could be prohibitively complicated for home cooks.
Other recipes to try: Spicy sesame kettle corn, poached pear brioche galette
The verdict: Keller and the three kings rule.

 

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Gallette des Rois/ Three Kings Cake
Serves about 8

8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter
½ cup sugar
1 large egg
3 large egg yolks, divided
1 cup finely ground almonds
2 Tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting work surface
2 Tbsp. dark rum
1½ lbs. puff pastry, divided
1 dried dean or 1 peeled baby carrot
1 Tbsp. powdered sugar

• In a mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until very light and fluffy. Beat in the whole egg and 1 of the egg yolks until smooth. Stir in the almonds, 2 tablespoons flour and rum until evenly combined. Cover and refrigerate.
• Brush an ungreased baking sheet very lightly with water. Dust a work surface lightly with flour and roll 10 ounces of the pastry until 1/16th inch thick and trim into an 11-inch circle. Transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Mound the almond filling on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Press the dried bean into the filling. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 egg yolks with 1-teaspoon water. Brush the border with a little of the egg wash.
• On a lightly floured work surface, roll the remaining dough until 1/8-inch thick and trim into an 11-inch circle. Lay it over the filling and press the top and bottom pastry layers together to seal. Trim the pastry so the edges are even. If you like, make a scalloped border all the way around: with your thumbnail facing toward the cake, press your thumb down onto the pastry border. Position a teaspoon on one side of your thumb and pull the pastry back toward the cake with the spoon, snugging it up nicely. Move your thumb to the opposite side of the scallop and repeat all the way around to form a deeply wavy, decorative edge. If the dough warms too much and becomes soft and sticky, refrigerate the cake to allow it to firm up.
• Brush the egg wash over the entire top of the cake. With the back of a paring knife, without cutting into the pastry, draw a decorative pattern of cross-hatched lines or petals by marking sets of curved lines like open and closed parentheses.
• Chill the cake while the oven preheats to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Pierce a few holes through the pastry to allow steam to escape and dust the top with the powdered sugar. Bake until puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Lower the heat to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and continue to bake until the cake is firm, shiny on top, and toasty brown, about 5 minutes. If the sugar has not melted, run the cake quickly under a very hot broiler to finish glazing. Serve it warm or at room temperature. The cake is best served the same day it is baked. Any leftovers can be rewarmed gently before serving.

Reprinted with permission Andrews McMeel Publishing

Drink This Weekend Edition: Spruce Brown Ale at Old Bakery Beer Co.

December 2nd, 2016

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The St. Louis beer scene is ripe with collaborations and local support. The most recent example can be found just across the Mississippi in Alton. Old Bakery Beer Co. has teamed up with The Nature Institute to offer a series of special brews showcasing ingredients locally foraged at TNI’s managed property. This series showcases 12 cask beers offered on the first Friday of every month through October 2017.

Each combination highlights a native Illinois plant and its importance to the environment. Over the course of this yearlong series, imbibers can vote for their favorite combination. Old Bakery will brew the winner at full scale and release it to the public at this time next year. And if that wasn’t enough, half of the proceeds from specialty beer sold benefits TNI’s research and education program.

The first in this series, a Persimmon Pub Ale, was offered in November during Alton Craft Beer Week, but fear not, local beer drinkers – the second cask is tapped tonight, Dec. 2, at 5 p.m. Head to Alton for the Spruce Brown Ale, Old Bakery’s A-Town Brown Ale hopped up with Simcoe and Chinook and finished with spruce tips. It’s festive, creative and sure to be delicious served at cask temperature.

Can’t make it tonight for the second release? Cask No. 3, Hairy Mountain Porter – a porter brewed with Hairy Mountain mint – debuts Jan. 6, 2017.

 

Related Content
Drink This Weekend Edition: 3 Big Black Friday Beers

Sauce Guide to Beer 2016

• Sneak Peek: The Old Bakery Beer Co.

 

Baked: Chocolate Chai Cupcakes

December 2nd, 2016

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Pumpkin spice dominates lattes and baked goods right now, but there’s something special about chai spices. Pairing cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and ginger with deep, rich chocolate gives a boost to each bite. The ReTrailer recently cold-brewed its Don’t Chai Know masala chai blend, and the concentrate is the best part: heavily ginger based and infused with all the best masala spices. It’s available at Larder & Cupboard and meant to be blended with milk, but I added it to these super moist chocolate cupcakes for a tangy, spicy kick. It’s the perfect fall dessert. Enjoy and happy baking!

 

Chocolate Chai Cupcakes
Adapted from a recipe at Sally’s Baking Addiction
1 dozen cupcakes

¾ cup chai concentrate*, divided
1 Tbsp. plus a splash heavy cream, divided
1 cup sugar
⅓ cup canola oil
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 tsp. vanilla extract
¾ cup flour
¾ cup cocoa powder, divided
¾ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
Pinch of kosher salt
2 cups powdered sugar
½ cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.
• In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup chai concentrate and 1 tablespoon heavy cream. Set aside.
• In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, oil, eggs and vanilla until combined. Add the chai-cream mixture, flour, ½ cup cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt and the chai-cream mixture and whisk until just combined.
• Evenly divide the batter among the muffin cups. Bake 18 to 22 minutes, until a knife inserted into the middle of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool completely.
• Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, make the frosting by beating the powdered sugar, butter and the remaining ¼ cup chai concentrate, ¼ cup cocoa powder and splash of cream on medium speed until fluffy. The frosting should be thick but spreadable.
• When the cupcakes have cooled, top them liberally with frosting.

* Chai concentrate is available at Larder & Cupboard.

 

More Baked Recipes
Baked: Roasted Sriracha Pumpkin Seeds

Baked: Tropezienne Tarts

Baked: Chocolate Chip-Orange Muffins

• Baked: Chai-Chocolate Chip Scones

 

The Scoop: Guerrilla Street Food to open second STL location in new Trops

December 1st, 2016

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 { 800-pound gorilla }

 

Guerrilla Street Food has found a second home – inside the new Tropical Liqueurs. As The Scoop reported in June, Tropical Liqueurs is moving from its current location in Soulard to at 4104 Manchester Ave., in The Grove. Its last day in Soulard is this Sunday, Dec. 4.

At the time, Billy Thompson, a co-owner of the frozen cocktail bar, spoke excitedly about the neighborhood, the building and the possibility of partnering with a local restaurant at the new space. This possibility became reality when Trops decided to join forces with Brian Hardesty and Joel Crespo of Guerrilla Street Food. The new space is slated to open in early March.

“We hadn’t thought that a new location in St. Louis was what we wanted to do before,” said Hardesty. “We really didn’t have a serious conversation about a second St. Louis location because we were focusing on Chicago, but this is a cool new development, and we’re excited about this partnership.”

While Tropical Liqueurs will cover the beverages, Guerrilla Street Food will handle all the food. “The location is going to have its own chef and its own specials, but people can still expect to see some of the old-school classics like The Flying Pig, the chicken adobo and the lumpia,” said Hardesty.

Guerrilla Street Food will offer lunch and dinner, as well as weekly brunch service. Hardesty said he looked forward to the fun combination of tropical slushy drinks and Filipino fare. “I think it will be a good addition to the neighborhood and that it will integrate really well with what is already there,” he said. “We’re just really excited to get it started.”

 

Related Content
The Scoop: Tropical Liqueurs to move to The Grove

The Scoop: Tropical Liqueurs to stay open in Soulard, looking for new location

The Scoop: Guerrilla Street Food to open Chicago location

Eat This: Chicken Adobo at Guerrilla Street Food

Olivia Dansky and Brianna Velarde contributed to this report.

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