Hello Stranger | Login | Create Account
 
 
 
 
 
  SAUCE MAGAZINE
|
Sep 25, 2016
|
Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
|
SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
Email | Text-size: A | A | A

Extra Sauce: In case you missed it…

September 25th, 2016

From new additions in the Delmar Loop to the closing of a gluten-free favorite, here’s what went down last week in the STL dining scene, ICYMI…

 

092216_snowfactory

 

1. Drop the scoop and pick up a scraper. Thai ice cream is rolling into The Loop. Owner Van Liu opened Snow Factory Sept. 22 at 6602 Delmar Blvd. The shop specializes in made-to-order rolled ice cream and Hong Kong egg waffles.

2. A new style is coming to the Delmar Loop in early October. Owners Thao Truong and her husband, Yun Vu, are finalizing plans to open VietNam Style, Delmar’s newest Vietnamese restaurant, at 6100 Delmar Blvd.

 

092316_narrowgauge

 

3. East Coast IPAs are infatuated with high turbidity and a juicy hop aroma. Now, St. Louis has a these fantastic IPAs in our backyard with the addition of Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. in Florissant.

4. A New Orleans-themed food truck will soon hit the streets. STL French Quarter food truck is expecting to be on the road in October.

 

090716_bitterbottles

 

5. Sweet-toothed Americans are increasingly embracing bitter flavors at the bar. Here, 6 bottles that best bring out the bitter.

6. Almost a year after The Scoop reported the coming opening of California Do-nut Co., owner Felinna Love announced on the shop’s Facebook page she will not open due for professional and personal reasons.

 

091916_newday

 

7. After nearly six years, New Day Gluten Free closed its doors in Ellisville on Sept. 19 – but owners Garrett and Kelly Beck aren’t ruling out a new home for the gluten-free, peanut-free restaurant and bakery.

 

 

 

Drink This Weekend Edition: Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.

September 23rd, 2016

092316_narrowgauge

 

I am so excited IPAs are trending once again. I’ve advocated for the style since I sat down with my first 3 Floyds Zombie Dust more than a decade ago. I’m an advocate for all IPA styles: ridiculously dank, bitter West Coast IPAs; mid-America’s preference for American-grown Cascade and Centennial hops; a national obsession with session IPAs (ahem, Pinner); and the East Coast’s infatuation with high turbidity and a juicy hop aroma. Now, St. Louis has a bit of all these fantastic IPAs in our backyard with the addition of Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. in Florissant.

Narrow Gauge is a tiny three-barrel brewery housed within Cugino’s Italian Restaurant, and brewmaster Jeff Hardesty knows exactly what he’s doing with an East Coast IPA: high turbidity (very hazy), hop aromatics for days and a juicy hop-forward taste on the front of palate with a clean, balanced bitterness on the back.

Narrow Gauge is only available at Cugino’s and to-go in 32-ounce growlers, so grab a seat at the bar, order up some meatballs and dirty wings and settle in – you’ll want to try all the Narrow Gauge beer. Here’s what I sampled on a recent visit:

1. Single Hop Beer: Citra (7-percent ABV)
Tropical fruit, citrus zest and onion round out this perfectly beautiful Citra hop expression. Juicy aroma, fantastic texture with a bit of dryness and a lingering bitterness will leave you wanting another.

2. Single Hop Beer: Mosaic (7-percent ABV)
Some slight herbaceous dankness is backed by stone fruit on the nose and a whole lot of grass and mango on the palate. Though not quite as dry and bitter as the Single Hop Citra, it is just as juicy.

3. OJ Run (8.6-percent ABV)
Named for a stretch of road and the shenanigans that took place on said road, this Imperial IPA is like drinking a tiki cocktail in a barn right after the grass was cut. Citra, Amarillo and Galaxy hops stack this aroma with passion fruit, lemon zest, straw and fresh grass. Despite the higher ABV, this imperial is incredibly balanced and not cloyingly sweet.

 

Katie Herrera is tasting room manager at Side Project Cellar and co-founder of Femme Ferment.

 

The Scoop: Snow Factory brings rolled Thai ice cream to The Delmar Loop

September 22nd, 2016

092216_snowfactory

 

Drop the scoop and pick up a scraper. Thai ice cream is rolling into The Loop. Owner Van Liu opened Snow Factory today, Sept. 22, at 6602 Delmar Blvd., as reported by the Riverfront Times. The shop specializes in made-to-order rolled ice cream and Hong Kong egg waffle cones.

A senior in college, Liu said his heritage and trips to Asia inspired him to bring this concept “to the U.S. for all people to try.” His location in The Loop (the former home of Cheeseology) was ideal thanks to its close proximity to area universities and The Loop’s international community. “It would be great for Asians and Americans,” he said.

Unlike traditional scooped American ice cream, Liu explained that Thai rolled ice cream is made to order on a cold plate. The ice cream base and flavorings are poured onto the pan and stirred with spatulas as it freezes. It is then spread into a thin layer and scraped up, forming delicate rolls.

Snow Factory offers more than a dozen flavors with Asian options like Ujikintoki (matcha ice cream with red bean paste) and Southern Asian Taro, as well as traditional American options like Oreo Wonderland and peanut butter and pretzel. Liu and his team serve the rolled ice cream is served in cups or in Hong Kong egg waffle cones, which features large “pockets” that create crevices for toppings and melting ice cream.

Snow Factory is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Baked: Chai-Chocolate Chip Scones

September 22nd, 2016

092216_baked

 

Chai and chocolate is an underrated combination. Aromatic spices like cinnamon, cardamom and clove enhance chocolate’s rich flavor. These scones have a crusty, crispy edge and a soft, delicate crumb inside, with a hint of spice at the end of every bite. There best on a Sunday morning for family or friends visiting. It’s hard to eat just one.

 

Chai-Chocolate Chip Scones
Adapted from a recipe at Sally’s Baking Addiction 
6 scones

2 cups (250 g.) all-purpose flour*, plus more for dusting
2½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, grated or cubed
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. buttermilk, divided
½ cup (100 g.) granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. chai spice mix (recipe follows)
1¼ cups semisweet chocolate chips
2 Tbsp. coarse sugar

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
• In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the butter, then use your fingers to rub the butter into the ingredients until the mixture is coarsely combined.
• Add ½ cup buttermilk, sugar, egg, chai spice mix and vanilla extract, then use a spatula or your hand to almost bring the mixture together. Add the chocolate chips and gently mix to combine, taking care not to overwork the dough.
• Sprinkle a clean work surface with flour and turn the dough out on it. Use your hands to forma 6-inch disk, then use a sharp knife to divide into 6 equal wedges.
• Place scones on the baking sheet with room between them to spread. Brush the scones with the remaining 1 tablespoon buttermilk and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.
• Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly golden and cooked through. Let cool about 10 minutes before serving.

*For the best texture, I recommend weighing the flour. 

 

Chai Spice Mix

In a small bowl, combine ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon, 1¼ teaspoons ground cardamom, ¾ teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon ground allspice, ½ teaspoon ground cloves and ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg. Store covered in an airtight container.

 

Amrita Song is the owner and baker at Mila Sweets and blogs at Chai & Dumplings

Just Five: Chocolate-Tahini Milkshake

September 21st, 2016

092116_just5

 
Remember that jar of tahini that you bought six months ago to make hummus? The one from which you used a whopping 2 tablespoons, then shoved in the back of your fridge? Roll up your sleeves and find it.

This treat was inspired after a sweet treat at Layla in The Grove. As lovers of all things chocolate and peanut butter, we gave Layla’s Chocolate Tahini Shake a try. Not only was I delighted, I immediately made a beeline to the bar and demanded to know how many ingredients it included. As I suspected, this was in my wheelhouse. Tahini is not as sweet or salty as peanut butter, so I added a touch of salt, as well as dark chocolate shavings for extra depth. Be a pal, double the recipe and share with a friend.

Chocolate-Tahini Milkshake
Inspired by a recipe from Layla
1 serving

4 tennis ball-sized scoops vanilla ice cream
1 cup whole or 2-percent milk
3 Tbsp. chocolate syrup
2 Tbsp. tahini
1/8 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. dark or semisweet chocolate shavings

• Add the ice cream, milk, chocolate syrup, tahini and salt to the pitcher of a blender and mix on high speed 10 seconds. Add the chocolate shavings and pulse, then pour into a large glass. Serve with a straw and long-handled spoon.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

The Scoop: VietNam Style aims to bring traditional Vietnamese fare to The Loop

September 21st, 2016

092116_vietnamstyle

 

A new style is coming to the Delmar Loop in early October. Owners Thao Truong and her husband, Yun Vu, are finalizing plans to open VietNam Style, Delmar’s newest Vietnamese restaurant, at 6100 Delmar Blvd., as reported by the Riverfront Times. Truong will run the front of house and a fresh fruit smoothie bar, while Vu will helm the kitchen with Truong’s mother assisting.

Truong said VietNam Style’s food will reflect authentic cuisine she grew up with in Vietnam. “My mom helped teach me to cook,” Truong said. “Since I was 10 years old, and she always chose the best ingredients to cook with. She would send me to the markets, and when I chose one (ingredient) that was not fresh enough, she sent me back to get a better one.”

Look for traditional Vietnamese dishes like pho or grilled pork with a sweet-and-sour fish sauce served atop rice vermicelli and herbs. Truong also hopes to bring tastes of more modern Vietnamese cuisine like Sizzling Steak, a thin sliced beef dish cooked on hot cast-iron that Truong said has risen in popularity in Vietnam.

“Delmar is a place for mostly international students and people. Customers come there to try new things,” she said. “I can’t think of a better spot for my restaurant.”

When its doors open, VietNam Style will offer daily lunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m., and it will open back up at 5 p.m. for dinner. The restaurant will close at 9:30 p.m. on weekdays and 10:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

The Scoop: STL French Quarter food truck to hit the streets in October

September 21st, 2016

092116_thefrenchquarter

 

A New Orleans-themed food truck will soon hit the streets. STL French Quarter food truck is expecting to be on the road in October, as reported by St. Louis Magazine. Owner Chuck Hess said he will announce lunch stops around St. Louis City via Facebook.

While he may be new to the food truck scene, he’s no stranger to St. Louis restaurants. A graduate of St. Louis Community College culinary program, he has worked in the kitchens of St. Louis Country Club, Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark and 801 Chophouse. “I was ready to get out of the corporate world and do my own thing,” he said.

Hess makes the andouille sausage and tasso ham in-house and will use them in classic NOLA dishes like po’boys and shrimp and crawfish étouffée. He’s also looking forward to playing with the menu. “With a name like French Quarter, you have some flexibility,” he said.

Hess’ truck is still in the works, but curious customers can get a taste of what’s to come Friday and Saturday nights at Modern Brewing from 4:30 to 10 p.m.

By the Book: Cyprus: A Culinary Journey by Marianne Salentin-Träger

September 21st, 2016

BTB_Oct16_Round2_1

 

I picked up Cyprus: A Culinary Journey by Marianne Salentin-Träger, and I was immediately blown away by the photography. Even though not technically a Greek cookbook – the island of Cyprus is further east, off the coast of Turkey – the recipes are definitely of influenced by Greek cuisine.

Despite beautiful photos, the recipe for Meatballs with Oven Chips required less illustration and more instruction. Since there was no temperature guidance or size suggestions to prepare the meatballs, I ruined the first two batches over too high heat, burning the outside and leaving the interiors raw. I finally settled on medium-low heat, which resulted in tender, flavorful insides and crisp exteriors. Likewise, I kicked the heat up to 400 degrees to cook the potato wedges after nearly 45 minutes at 340 degrees (the only temperature indicated in the recipe) produced soft, baked wedges, not crisp chips.

While the end result tasted wonderful, a third of the recipe ended up in the trash thanks to vague instruction. Unless you have experience making meatballs or other Greek dishes, skip this book.

Skill level: Intermediate to advanced with poor recipe instruction.
This book is for: Adventurous, experienced cooks looking for a taste of Cyprus
Other recipes to try: Baklava rolls with walnuts, Oven Omelette, Banana Cake
The verdict: Last week’s rib-eye takes the win.

 

BTB_Oct16_Round2_2

 

Meatballs with Oven Chips
A recipe by Franz Keller
4 servings

600 g. (about 1 1/3 lbs.) raw lean beef from the haunch, freshly ground at the butcher’s (ground round)
4 shallots
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
2 medium organic eggs
2 Tbsp. olive oil
5 to 6 Tbsp. breadcrumbs, softened with a little milk
3 leaves of wild sage
Salt, pepper
A few drops chile oil

Serve with 20 leaves wild sage
8 medium potatoes (deep-fried or oven-baked)
Olive oil (not virgin)

• Mix the ground beef with the other ingredients, and season with salt and pepper. Form into meatballs and fry in olive oil until done.
• Peel the potatoes and cut into wedges. Deep-fry the wedges in normal (not native) olive oil over a medium heat, like chips. Deep-fry the remaining sage leaves in oil, too.
• Alternatively (and easier than deep-frying), put the potato wedges on a baking tray, sprinkle with some olive oil, season with salt and bake until crispy in a fan-assisted oven at 170 degrees Celsius (340 degrees Fahrenheit) for approximately 25 to 30 minutes.
• Serve the meatballs with the potato wedges and sage. Sprinkle everything with freshly ground sea salt!

 

Recipe printed with permission from C&C Publishing

Edible Weekend: 4 more ways to enjoy (and extend) the weekend

September 21st, 2016

091516_nudo

 

Whether you love wine, beer or healthy eats, there are plenty of ways to fill up this weekend. Still hungry? Here are four more events to look forward to (and extend) your weekend.

1. St. Charles Oktoberfest
Celebrate 30 years of Oktoberfest in St. Charles with 30 beers available from Hofbräu to Paulaner, as well as live music and German dance performances.
Drinkers: $2; Non-drinkers: free admission. Fri., Sept. 23 – 4 to 11 p.m.; Sat., Sept. 24 – 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun., Sept. 25 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Frontier Park, 500 Riverside Drive, St. Charles, saintcharlesoktoberfest.com 

2. Recess Brewing’s Oktoberfest
Recess Brewing celebrates Oktoberfest with three seasonal brews: Dr. Dunkelstein (a dunkelweizen), E’ville Pumpkin (a pumpkin ale) and Klingel Cave (an Oktoberfest).
Free admission. Sat., Sept. 24 – noon to 6 p.m., Recess Brewing, 307 N. Main St., Edwardsville, recessbrewing.com 

3. Nudo House Pop-Up
It’s out with pho and in with ramen (for a day, anyway) when Nudo House takes over Mai Lee for a pop-up. Choose from pork tonkotsu or a chicken schmaltz ramen at this cash-only event.
$10 each. Mon., Sept. 26 – noon to 9 p.m., Mai Lee, 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, Facebook: Nudo House STL 

4. The Farmer and The Chef Dinner
Farm to You Market goes from cafe to an elegant restaurant when Milque Toast chef-owner Colleen Clawson heads to Washington to prepare a five-course meal paired with wine and cocktails. Call or email to reserve a spot.
$60. Tue., Sept. 27 – 6:30 p.m., Farm to You Market, 5025 Old Highway 100, Washington, Facebook: Farm to You Market

Don’t miss out. Sign up for the Edible Weekend newsletter to get the best food events of the weekend delivered to your inbox every Wednesday.

Guide to Drinking 2016: 6 Best Bitter Bottles to Buy

September 20th, 2016

090716_bitterbottles

 

Sweet-toothed Americans are increasingly embracing bitter flavors at the bar. Aperol spritzes are everywhere, and according to Randolfi’s head barman Jeffrey Moll, “No respectable home bar should be without Campari.” The pretty pink amaro and its compatriots are for more than your nightly Negroni. Bitter liqueurs and aromatized wines can be enjoyed simply poured over ice with a citrus twist or neat at room temp. We asked Moll, Planter’s House’s Ted Kilgore and Retreat Gastropub’s Tim Wiggins to tell us which bottles best bring out the bitter.

1. Amaro Sibilla is sweetened with honey but tastes boldly bitter and herbal – a siren song for the experienced amaro enthusiast. It’s great in complex cocktails. $54

2. Amaro Sibona boasts a sweet, baking spice-laced start with a smooth, slightly bitter, chocolate finish. Substitute it for Campari or sweet vermouth in your next Negroni. $30

3. Contratto Aperitif is easy to drink with prominent orange notes, like a more complex Aperol. Try mixing equal parts with a dry, sparkling white wine. $30

4. Amaro Nonino’s bittersweet caramel and baking spice notes are best on their own, rather than in a cocktail. Try as an aperitif over ice, or sip it neat after dinner. $50

5. Amaro di Angostura rolls around the palate with the spiced flavors of the classic Angostura bitters. Use in place of vermouth for an amped-up Manhattan. $22

6. Byrrh is a lightly bitter blend of young red wine and quinine. With an approachable flavor profile and price tag, it’s a safe start on your bitter journey. $18

All available at The Wine and Cheese Place in Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com

Photo by Jonathan Gayman 

RSS FEEDS
Keep up with one or all of your favorite Sauce Magazine columns
Conceived and created by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC 1999-2016, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Sauce Magazine 1820 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, Missouri 63103.
PH: 314-772-8004 FAX: 314-241-8004