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May 18, 2013
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
One Ingredient Many Ways
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Pink and Green and Red All Over
By Dee Ryan | Photos by Laura Miller
Posted On: 05/01/2013   


Rhubarb is one of the toughest ladies on the block. Oh sure she looks innocent, but don’t turn your back on her. She’s tarter than she is sweet, her leaves are poison and she's a vegetable in the same sneaky way that tomatoes are a fruit. The color difference is mostly varietal – green rhubarb isn’t necessarily unripe, nor will red be sweeter – but if you want that gorgeous ruby color in your dish, go with a redder stalk. Whatever you do, don't fence this chick in; she's destined for far more than pie filling.

We’re not kidding about those poisonous leaves – cut them off and dispose of them. Then give the stalks a good rinse. Don’t bother peeling them; that fibrous “skin” will break down during cooking.

Orange-Rhubarb Pancakes with Strawberry-Rhubarb Syrup Combine 1 cup rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces), ½ cup fresh orange juice, 2 tablespoons orange zest and ½ cup granulated sugar in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat until rhubarb is tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat, mash and let cool. To make the pancake batter, whisk together ½ cup white flour, 1¾ cups medium-grind cornmeal flour, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon baking soda in a large bowl. Stir in 2 eggs, 1¾ cups buttermilk and 1 tablespoon vanilla extract until smooth, adding more buttermilk as needed. Stir in the orange-rhubarb sauce. Make strawberry-rhubarb syrup by adding 1 cup pure maple syrup, ¼ cup chopped strawberries and ¼ cup rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces) to a small sauce pan. Bring to a low boil over low heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, cover and set aside. Cook pancakes in a large skillet or hot griddle. Serve with strawberry-rhubarb syrup, powdered sugar and whipped cream.

Pork Tenderloin with Spicy Rhubarb Compote In a small saucepan, combine 1/3 cup cider vinegar, ½ cup packed brown sugar, 2 cups rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces), 1 teaspoon Chinese Five Spice, 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoons freshly chopped ginger, 2 minced garlic cloves and ¾ cup chopped red onion. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in 1/3 cup golden raisins, cover and set aside. Combine 1 teaspoon each of salt, pepper and Chinese Five Spice. Sprinkle spice mixture all over 1-pound pork tenderloin. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat. Sear tenderloin on all sides, about 90 seconds per side. Place skillet in 400-degree oven for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, cover with foil and let rest 10 minutes. Diagonally carve ½-inch slices. Serve with spicy rhubarb compote.

Rhubarb-Ginger Fizz In a small saucepan, combine ½ cup granulated sugar, ½ cup water, ¼ cup red rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces) and a freshly chopped 1-inch knob of ginger. Set over medium-high heat and stir until sugar dissolves and liquid comes to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain, reserving liquid. Let liquid come to room temperature, then transfer to re-sealable container.* In a shaker, combine 8 ounces gin, 4 ounces rhubarb simple syrup and ice. Shake hard for 20 seconds. Strain into 4 martini or coupe glasses, top with club soda and garnish with an orange twist.

* The rhubarb simple syrup will keep in the refrigerator for about 3 weeks.


Orange-Rhubarb Pancakes with Strawberry-Rhubarb Syrup
Makes 4 to 6
Rhubarb is one of the toughest ladies on the block. Oh sure she looks innocent, but don’t turn your back on her. She’s tarter than she is sweet, her leaves are poison and she's a vegetable in the same sneaky way that tomatoes are a fruit. The color difference is mostly varietal – green rhubarb isn’t necessarily unripe, nor will red be sweeter – but if you want that gorgeous ruby color in your dish, go with a redder stalk. And we’re not kidding about those poisonous leaves – cut them off and dispose of them. Then give the stalks a good rinse. Don’t bother peeling them; that fibrous “skin” will break down during cooking.

— Dee Ryan


INGREDIENTS

FOR THE ORANGE-RHUBARB SAUCE
1 cup rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces)
½ cup fresh orange juice
2 Tbsp. freshly grated orange zest
¼ cup granulated sugar

FOR THE PANCAKE BATTER
½ cup white flour
1¾ cup medium-grind cornmeal
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. baking soda
2 eggs
1¾ cups buttermilk
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
8 to 12 Tbsp. butter

FOR THE STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB SYRUP
1 cup pure maple syrup
¼ cup chopped strawberries
¼ cup rhubarb (chopped into ½-inch pieces)

PREPARATION

• Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
• First, make the Orange-Rhubarb Sauce: Combine the chopped rhubarb, orange juice, orange zest and sugar in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat until the rhubarb is fork tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and use a fork to mash the mixture into a thick sauce. Set aside and let cool.
• Next, make the Pancake Batter: In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, cornmeal flour, sugar, salt and baking soda. Stir in the eggs, buttermilk and vanilla until smooth, adding more buttermilk as needed.
• Stir the Orange-Rhubarb Sauce into the Pancake Batter and set aside.
• Now, the Strawberry-Rhubarb Syrup: Add the maple syrup, strawberries and rhubarb to a small sauce pan. Bring to a low boil over low heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, cover and set aside while you make the pancakes.
• Butter a large skillet or griddle, and place over medium-high heat. Ladle in about 3 to 4 tablespoons of batter per pancake. When the top of the pancake begins to bubble, carefully flip the pancakes and cook them for another 2 minutes or so. Remove to a plate set in the oven while you make the rest of the pancakes.
• Serve the pancakes with the Strawberry-Rhubarb Syrup, powdered sugar and whipped cream.

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